Dear FAmily and Friends
a no blister day! Yeah!
I started out this morning a little after 7 in the dark and a half moon to guide me. It was a bit cool but not like it has been. I had some difficulty finding the trail but an early cyclist pointed the way. I was feeling very spiffy in my fresh air dried clothes. Once again it was a beautiful morning, rolling hills, rich vegetation and a beautiful sunrise. At one point I stopped at a picnic ground and had some dark chocolate in a piece of yesterdays French bread. A tasty little treat that kept me going till I found a bar open in a village. Two young Spanish men walked by,each carrying large Spanish flags hung on their walking sticks. They were very colourful. I had met them last night with Marcie and Jenny, my young friends from Bellingham with whom I had walked for the better part of the first week. It was like old home week seeing them again. They had stayed in Burgos 2 days to celebrate Marcy's birthday which made us back in step again.
I was happy about my decision to stop at Calzadilla de la Cueza. It was a long woay to terradillos de los templarios and I learned from a young German woman I met enroute that they filled the private auberue there early and a woman she met had to walk back to the next town to get a place to stay.
Last night at dinner an Hungarian woman named Judith joined Sheila, Janet (NZ) and I. She has done the Camino 3 times and is working for 4 months at various aubergues. In our discussion around issues that come up on the camino, she said that each person receives issues thatcthey need to deal with. The shoes are not the issue with blisters or foot problems. The issues start from the ground up and manifest in the body. By the end of the camino, mind and body come together. To me she made a lot of sense and I began to see my blisters on a different light. Actually, I recall Nicole telling me something similar in the early days of my foot issues. It certainly is a time for me to walk my walk.
We passed a small vinyard today where there were many colourful scarecrows in the field. My camera wasn't powerful enough to capture them but I stopped to talk with him and took his picture. I'm proud to say I got on quite well for a bit before I had to say no hablo espagnol.
Something might be sinking in this old head.
Sheila and I met up for lunch and met a couple from Brazil. She has walked the Vamino several times and her husband twice. He too prefers to stay in hostals because he loses/leaves too many things in the aubergues. He told his wife it was cheaper for them to stay in hostals rather than have to replace all the things he has left behind.
The walk from our lunch stop to Sahagun was quite an easy one. Sahagun is quite a big town as seen from a distance. It struck me as I was walking toward town, here I am, 64 years old walking with a pack on my back, with everything I need....walking across Spain. It hit me in a strange new way and I felt very free. It is nothing I have ever done before. I had never travelled away on my own when I was young, like many do- backpacking Europe or Asia. I suppose when I was young I did not appreciate the breadth of choices available to me at that stage of my life. So having that thought as I entered this town was quite wonderful.
I am not sure where I will be tomorrow night. Either el Burgo Ranero or Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. Until then Buen Camino. Heather
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Calzadilla de la Cueza
Dear Family and Friends
We passed the half way mark today! Now that is progress!
I stopped at Calzadilla de la Cueze because I am trying to listen to my body. I could have carried on another 7.8 km to Terradillos de los Templarios, but my feet really do react negatively when I push. They are doing pretty well, but I am not blister free and I learned my lesson last time. It was very hard for me to tell myself it was OK to stay. I´m not sure what it is that pushes me. I do have a schedule that lays out the distances and days, and this does add on another day before I arrive in Leon- Sunday rather than saturday. But I do know this Camino is not a race, and it is providing me with challenges I need to attend to.
It was helpful yesterday being with a group of women who are also moving more slowly along the camino. Four of us went for dinner last night. Sheila, my Irish friend, Laura, a young woman from Toronto, and Janet, a woman from NewZealand. They are all in their 50´s. Janet is interesting in that she is a single mom and has raised her children on her own. They are all adults now. She is a nurse working on North Island. Her daugher and boyfriend, after travelling 2 years decided to come home and rent a place for 6 months for their summer to give themselves time to decide what to do. Janet decided that was her opportunity to go on an adventure. She has allowed her daughter and boyfriend to rent her place, she took out a loan and is travelling for 6 months- 2 of them for the Camino. She is a delight.
Laura has been sick with a cold and has been taking it very slowly also. She has come realizing she was not really prepared to do the Camino, so is taking it slow. Sheila has an organized trip- with bookings for the entire trip and her bags are transported to each stop. She had problems with her foot before she left, so decided it best not to try to carry a pack. THis is her 50th birthday present.
I also met two delightful Swedish women this morning. They have a trolly rigged with a harness which they share pulling. It carries both of their packs. They are staying in aubergues, though she confessed that she is taking sleeping pills to help her sleep. They are also doing a blog, so we exchanged addresses.
They were very interested in talking about books of interest. My friends from last night arrived, and I walked with them a bit, but I hope I meet up with the Swedish women again. They are around my age.
They told me about an experience they had Ermita de San Nicolas. I had heard about this place from an Austrian man in Hontanas. He had experienced it a couple of years ago and wanted to take his new wife of 3 months. When I arrived, I was told they do not accept pilgrims before 4pm and she was very discouraging of me waiting. It is a small 13Century chapel which also houses cooking facilites without electricity, and 10 aubergue beds. They cook together, have dinner by candle light, then have a ritual. Anita (the Swedish woman) said they read a poem by Pablo Neruda, did a ritual, then washed their feet. Like the Austrian man, she said it was the highlight of her trip so far. I did meet the Austrian couple the next day, and he too was rejected on the day I tried to stay there. He said they were not very welcoming, although 2 people who experienced it this year have had nothing but good things to say about it.
The path today got a bit tedious towards the end. It was a stretch of 17.5km without much relief. There was a stand after about 10km - in the middle of no where- a trailer with fruit, sweets, coffee, tea, drinks etc. and tables and chairs. It was a delightful break. The last 7.5 km was much harder than the first 10. It got hot. The path was a stone path through fields, some ploughed, some with the crops cut, and various fields of old sunflowers, heads bowed to the east peppered here and there. The fields go as far as you can see. But unlike the prairies, they are often rolling hills.
Calzadilla de la Cueza is very small. The place I am staying is the Camino Real. Ísn´t there a movie by that name? It is quite a hive of activity here, it is the only place in town to eat.. I haven´t seen anyone yet whom I know, but I do know Sheila is staying here.
The sequence of events- for me at least, is to arrive and shower, attend to feet, then wash clothes and wrap them in the towel so they can dry in time for morning. I had something to eat when I arrived to give me time to decide whether or not I would stay. It is beautiful and sunny, so I have washed almost all the clothes I have with me, save for something to wear while the others dry. Reports say that rain is on its way, so make hay while the sun shines. I will need to wear my boots once it rains, so that will be interesting to see how they treat my feet.
These places I have visited on the Meseta all hang out their sheets outside to dry. They have such a fresh smell, it is delightful.
Once again, the moon hung in the sky to past noon. Not sure why that happens, I have not noticed it before, but then, I don´t usually spend my time walking looking at the sky. It is close to a half moon now. Fascinating being so tuned into the passing phases of the moon and nature. The mornings start out very cool and soon warm up. NOt too much of a wind today, but got quite hot.
Tomorrow I expect to be in Sahagun, some 21km away.
It is a bigger town, so hopefully, will continue this then. Bye for now. Heather
We passed the half way mark today! Now that is progress!
I stopped at Calzadilla de la Cueze because I am trying to listen to my body. I could have carried on another 7.8 km to Terradillos de los Templarios, but my feet really do react negatively when I push. They are doing pretty well, but I am not blister free and I learned my lesson last time. It was very hard for me to tell myself it was OK to stay. I´m not sure what it is that pushes me. I do have a schedule that lays out the distances and days, and this does add on another day before I arrive in Leon- Sunday rather than saturday. But I do know this Camino is not a race, and it is providing me with challenges I need to attend to.
It was helpful yesterday being with a group of women who are also moving more slowly along the camino. Four of us went for dinner last night. Sheila, my Irish friend, Laura, a young woman from Toronto, and Janet, a woman from NewZealand. They are all in their 50´s. Janet is interesting in that she is a single mom and has raised her children on her own. They are all adults now. She is a nurse working on North Island. Her daugher and boyfriend, after travelling 2 years decided to come home and rent a place for 6 months for their summer to give themselves time to decide what to do. Janet decided that was her opportunity to go on an adventure. She has allowed her daughter and boyfriend to rent her place, she took out a loan and is travelling for 6 months- 2 of them for the Camino. She is a delight.
Laura has been sick with a cold and has been taking it very slowly also. She has come realizing she was not really prepared to do the Camino, so is taking it slow. Sheila has an organized trip- with bookings for the entire trip and her bags are transported to each stop. She had problems with her foot before she left, so decided it best not to try to carry a pack. THis is her 50th birthday present.
I also met two delightful Swedish women this morning. They have a trolly rigged with a harness which they share pulling. It carries both of their packs. They are staying in aubergues, though she confessed that she is taking sleeping pills to help her sleep. They are also doing a blog, so we exchanged addresses.
They were very interested in talking about books of interest. My friends from last night arrived, and I walked with them a bit, but I hope I meet up with the Swedish women again. They are around my age.
They told me about an experience they had Ermita de San Nicolas. I had heard about this place from an Austrian man in Hontanas. He had experienced it a couple of years ago and wanted to take his new wife of 3 months. When I arrived, I was told they do not accept pilgrims before 4pm and she was very discouraging of me waiting. It is a small 13Century chapel which also houses cooking facilites without electricity, and 10 aubergue beds. They cook together, have dinner by candle light, then have a ritual. Anita (the Swedish woman) said they read a poem by Pablo Neruda, did a ritual, then washed their feet. Like the Austrian man, she said it was the highlight of her trip so far. I did meet the Austrian couple the next day, and he too was rejected on the day I tried to stay there. He said they were not very welcoming, although 2 people who experienced it this year have had nothing but good things to say about it.
The path today got a bit tedious towards the end. It was a stretch of 17.5km without much relief. There was a stand after about 10km - in the middle of no where- a trailer with fruit, sweets, coffee, tea, drinks etc. and tables and chairs. It was a delightful break. The last 7.5 km was much harder than the first 10. It got hot. The path was a stone path through fields, some ploughed, some with the crops cut, and various fields of old sunflowers, heads bowed to the east peppered here and there. The fields go as far as you can see. But unlike the prairies, they are often rolling hills.
Calzadilla de la Cueza is very small. The place I am staying is the Camino Real. Ísn´t there a movie by that name? It is quite a hive of activity here, it is the only place in town to eat.. I haven´t seen anyone yet whom I know, but I do know Sheila is staying here.
The sequence of events- for me at least, is to arrive and shower, attend to feet, then wash clothes and wrap them in the towel so they can dry in time for morning. I had something to eat when I arrived to give me time to decide whether or not I would stay. It is beautiful and sunny, so I have washed almost all the clothes I have with me, save for something to wear while the others dry. Reports say that rain is on its way, so make hay while the sun shines. I will need to wear my boots once it rains, so that will be interesting to see how they treat my feet.
These places I have visited on the Meseta all hang out their sheets outside to dry. They have such a fresh smell, it is delightful.
Once again, the moon hung in the sky to past noon. Not sure why that happens, I have not noticed it before, but then, I don´t usually spend my time walking looking at the sky. It is close to a half moon now. Fascinating being so tuned into the passing phases of the moon and nature. The mornings start out very cool and soon warm up. NOt too much of a wind today, but got quite hot.
Tomorrow I expect to be in Sahagun, some 21km away.
It is a bigger town, so hopefully, will continue this then. Bye for now. Heather
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Carrion de los Condes
Dear Family and Friends,
I am pretty sick with how much of my message yesterday was lost. WeeFee (Wifi) seems to be very iffy here and although I can keep typing, the info is not saved. Obviously I cannot always rely on this blog to record all the stories, so will try to keep this short and get the information down in my journal.
I stayed in Fromista longer than normal today, deciding to have breakfast before I left. It was a beautiful day and Sheila (my Irish friend) and I set out about 8:30. The moon was high in the sky even though the sun was shining and it lasted till well past noon. There was an alternate route alongside a river bank and I encouraged Sheila to come along with me. Obviously not many pilgrims took advantage of this alternate route which was off the main road because it was quite overgrown and many burr bushes and long grasses had to be trampled down. I was wearing my sandals because my feet are much happier in them and by the time we reached the next town my feet were quite wet. But my pinkie was very happy. The pharmacia in Fromista was amazingly well stocked. He suggested a little finger bandage that was lined in silicone. It was wonderful, though by the time we arrived at our destination, there is no way around it, your feet are very tired.
The route we chose was otherwise very peaceful and was lightened also by many birds singing. It opened up to a better road, but we decided to follow the main camino route through to Carrion de lost Condes. It followed the roadway, though it was not a very busy road - no major highway. But to look at it, it looked like a camino throughway - with markers as far as you could see. Still, the scenery was very peaceful with rolling hills of ploughed fields.
We stopped in Villalcazar de Sirga for some lunch. We stopped at a bench at the edge of a park along the walkway and Sheila went to get a sandwich and some drinks for each of us. I had bought a boccadilla, and was sitting eating it while I aired my feet and rested them on my walking sticks. A Japanese woman came up to me and asked me if she could massage my feet? Do you really think I would say no? I agreed and she put her things on another park bench and got out her cream. It was heaven. She lives in Hiroshima, and learned to do 4 kinds of massage since her last Camino walk two years ago between Roncevalles and Santiago. This time she left from Puy France, beginning near the end of July. She returned to Hiroshima in September I think when she went to honour Hiroshima, then walked once more, and returned again to Japan in October for a tea ceremony. She would accept nothing for her service. I bowed to her and honoured her.
I did pass her as I walked into Carrion, and offered to give her a massage. I thought she agreed, but once we entered town we stopped under a tree and she was about to massage me again. She refused a massage, so this seems to be an important offering she is making. You can never tell me that angels don´t exist. My feet were dancing.
Otherwise it was a quiet day on the Camino today. I´m not sure where I will arrive tomorrow. I was going to stay in Terradillos de los Templarios, but I couldn´t get a booking. I may stay in a private auberge, but it is 26km so I will have to see how my feet are feeling.
So until next time. Buen Camino. Heather
I am pretty sick with how much of my message yesterday was lost. WeeFee (Wifi) seems to be very iffy here and although I can keep typing, the info is not saved. Obviously I cannot always rely on this blog to record all the stories, so will try to keep this short and get the information down in my journal.
I stayed in Fromista longer than normal today, deciding to have breakfast before I left. It was a beautiful day and Sheila (my Irish friend) and I set out about 8:30. The moon was high in the sky even though the sun was shining and it lasted till well past noon. There was an alternate route alongside a river bank and I encouraged Sheila to come along with me. Obviously not many pilgrims took advantage of this alternate route which was off the main road because it was quite overgrown and many burr bushes and long grasses had to be trampled down. I was wearing my sandals because my feet are much happier in them and by the time we reached the next town my feet were quite wet. But my pinkie was very happy. The pharmacia in Fromista was amazingly well stocked. He suggested a little finger bandage that was lined in silicone. It was wonderful, though by the time we arrived at our destination, there is no way around it, your feet are very tired.
The route we chose was otherwise very peaceful and was lightened also by many birds singing. It opened up to a better road, but we decided to follow the main camino route through to Carrion de lost Condes. It followed the roadway, though it was not a very busy road - no major highway. But to look at it, it looked like a camino throughway - with markers as far as you could see. Still, the scenery was very peaceful with rolling hills of ploughed fields.
We stopped in Villalcazar de Sirga for some lunch. We stopped at a bench at the edge of a park along the walkway and Sheila went to get a sandwich and some drinks for each of us. I had bought a boccadilla, and was sitting eating it while I aired my feet and rested them on my walking sticks. A Japanese woman came up to me and asked me if she could massage my feet? Do you really think I would say no? I agreed and she put her things on another park bench and got out her cream. It was heaven. She lives in Hiroshima, and learned to do 4 kinds of massage since her last Camino walk two years ago between Roncevalles and Santiago. This time she left from Puy France, beginning near the end of July. She returned to Hiroshima in September I think when she went to honour Hiroshima, then walked once more, and returned again to Japan in October for a tea ceremony. She would accept nothing for her service. I bowed to her and honoured her.
I did pass her as I walked into Carrion, and offered to give her a massage. I thought she agreed, but once we entered town we stopped under a tree and she was about to massage me again. She refused a massage, so this seems to be an important offering she is making. You can never tell me that angels don´t exist. My feet were dancing.
Otherwise it was a quiet day on the Camino today. I´m not sure where I will arrive tomorrow. I was going to stay in Terradillos de los Templarios, but I couldn´t get a booking. I may stay in a private auberge, but it is 26km so I will have to see how my feet are feeling.
So until next time. Buen Camino. Heather
Monday, September 27, 2010
Fromista cont'd
The Internet went down and I lost some of my post so I'll try to pick it up again.
The Damish fellow I met in Ages and the two of them had just attended a baptism at an adjacent church. There were lots of families about and they threw candies in wrappers into the street and over at the perigrino side too.
I also met a woman named Irma from Namimbia in South Africa. She had walked from la Puy in France which is where I wanted to walk from until I learned that it was 800km from st Jean Pied de Port. Irma said that there was a mass at 6:30 the morning they left where all the pilgrims attended and picked a name out of a bin that contained names of people who were incapable of taking the journey. She said it was incredibly moving and I felt goosebumps as she told the story. I also met two youn French Canadian women tonight who walked also from La Puy, France.
I had a fabulous meal in Honturos
The Damish fellow I met in Ages and the two of them had just attended a baptism at an adjacent church. There were lots of families about and they threw candies in wrappers into the street and over at the perigrino side too.
I also met a woman named Irma from Namimbia in South Africa. She had walked from la Puy in France which is where I wanted to walk from until I learned that it was 800km from st Jean Pied de Port. Irma said that there was a mass at 6:30 the morning they left where all the pilgrims attended and picked a name out of a bin that contained names of people who were incapable of taking the journey. She said it was incredibly moving and I felt goosebumps as she told the story. I also met two youn French Canadian women tonight who walked also from La Puy, France.
I had a fabulous meal in Honturos
Fromista
Dear Followers of the Camino
I thank you for your comments and emails. Sometimes I do feel like Im on the other side of the world but the journey continues to be filled with inspiration and wonderful people.
When I left Burgos I was well ahead because the hotel being near the university was a good 4km past the centre of town. At the azofra I went to have a cup of tea and soon the maitre D I had had the day before for dinner presented a plate of freshly baked croissants. Were they good (one only :). The walk went very fast and I arrived at Hornillos del Camino by noon. I had walked all day in my sandals and my feet felt very good. I was feeling very invigorated. I also had met another French Canadian couple from Quebec and Suzie and I had a similar pace. We spoke mainly in French which I was enjoying very much. We also met up with GG ( Gibeth and Gerard at hornillos where we had all stopped for lunch. The hostal I was to stay in was across the street. I was trying to decide whether to stay or not. I sensed that rain was coming and tried on my boots to see how they felt. They felt good. So I decided to go on. It was another 10 km. As I looked for the owner I saw a German fellow I had met earlier that day. He seemed to be hanging about and I asked him how he was. He said he had a bad foot and wanted to get a room at the Hostal but it was all full. I looked at him and said it was his lucky day. Amidst some confusion by the shop owner who was tending the hostal for the owner made the arrangements and told "Nick" he was going to be Mr Miller for that night. :).
I headed off into the Meseta just as it was starting to rain. I wondered if I was crazy. And of course I was. It would just take another dose of blisters to let it sink in really well. It actually rained quite hard. For a long while there was no one else on the path. Eventually Ramona, the Germanic Swiss woman I had met the first day at St Jean Pied la port caught up with me and we walked together to Hontanas. I got a lovely little room on the top floor. I asked for a cup of tea and the Senora brought it to me in my room. When I went outside there were many I had met previously - the Norwegian man who reminded me of my brother, and a Danish man I had met in
I thank you for your comments and emails. Sometimes I do feel like Im on the other side of the world but the journey continues to be filled with inspiration and wonderful people.
When I left Burgos I was well ahead because the hotel being near the university was a good 4km past the centre of town. At the azofra I went to have a cup of tea and soon the maitre D I had had the day before for dinner presented a plate of freshly baked croissants. Were they good (one only :). The walk went very fast and I arrived at Hornillos del Camino by noon. I had walked all day in my sandals and my feet felt very good. I was feeling very invigorated. I also had met another French Canadian couple from Quebec and Suzie and I had a similar pace. We spoke mainly in French which I was enjoying very much. We also met up with GG ( Gibeth and Gerard at hornillos where we had all stopped for lunch. The hostal I was to stay in was across the street. I was trying to decide whether to stay or not. I sensed that rain was coming and tried on my boots to see how they felt. They felt good. So I decided to go on. It was another 10 km. As I looked for the owner I saw a German fellow I had met earlier that day. He seemed to be hanging about and I asked him how he was. He said he had a bad foot and wanted to get a room at the Hostal but it was all full. I looked at him and said it was his lucky day. Amidst some confusion by the shop owner who was tending the hostal for the owner made the arrangements and told "Nick" he was going to be Mr Miller for that night. :).
I headed off into the Meseta just as it was starting to rain. I wondered if I was crazy. And of course I was. It would just take another dose of blisters to let it sink in really well. It actually rained quite hard. For a long while there was no one else on the path. Eventually Ramona, the Germanic Swiss woman I had met the first day at St Jean Pied la port caught up with me and we walked together to Hontanas. I got a lovely little room on the top floor. I asked for a cup of tea and the Senora brought it to me in my room. When I went outside there were many I had met previously - the Norwegian man who reminded me of my brother, and a Danish man I had met in
Friday, September 24, 2010
Burgos
Dear Family and Friends,
I will try this one more time. I arrived into Burgos early afternoon. The entrance to the city is through a very boring industrial area, then through the streets to the center of town where the Cathedral is located. But I will retrace my steps from Belorado to Ages.
When I awakened in Belorado, I could smell fire and wondered if a building was on fire. The inn keeper informed me that that was from the bakery where they make their daily pan (bread.) So no wonder it is so good, they bake it in wood ovens. I left the inn at 7 am in the dark. I found it difficult to find the symbols that guide us along the camino, so I went into a hotel to ask. There were many pilgrims there, including a German woman named Suzanne I had met the previous day. I decided to have some breakfast with her first then head off. We had to go along the highway for a while before turning off onto the trail, which held closely to a busy highway. As we moved from the roadway to the trail, we met Erica, the Swiss woman who has walked from Switzerland. Her image will forever be etched in my mind as she radiates enthusiasm. Because she is Germanic Swiss and Suzanne is German, the two of them began speaking rapidly in German. A Frenchman was walking along at the same time, so we talked a bit, and then they all left me in their dust. I was still nursing my blisters, so I was happy to walk at my own pace.
THe fields were rolling hills of cut hay and a farmer was ploughing a very large field adjacent to the path. It struck me that this journey is allowing old fields within me to be ploughed under preparing for the planting of new seeds in another season.
As I walked along a young tall blonde man came up beside me and spoke English. He was from Norway and just graduated from highschool. He is walking to Santiago, then heading to Paris, and then to India in an effort to discover the direction he wants to take his life. We made an easy connection and soon got into a very philosophical conversation. Such wisdom in so young a person. I have no doubt he will discover his path succussfully.
Part of our journey took us on a path through the cut hay field. It created a beautiful sight seeing all these people walking across golden fields. I have met people from Israel, Ireland, France, Italy, Britain, South Africa, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, New Zealand, US, and Canada. / I might have missed a few. Everyone greets each other by Ola, then Buen Camino. It does not matter what language is spoken, those greetings are exchanged automatically, usually with a smile. It's quite amazing.
When I stopped for a tea at a little cafe, I met a couple from New Brunswick/ from Acadia and we walked together for a while. They have both done the CAmino before, and the husband another time before that from France / over 60 days.
The rolling fields shifted into a steep climb on a very rocky path. Once again the path was lined with swaths of heather, some coming into bloom and others dying out from its blooming period. Ferns also abounded. There was a feel of out for a sunday stroll as we entered a pine forest which looked like it had been planted possibly 10 years before. I stopped for a little picnic with a boccodillo / sandwich made from a loaf of french bread and often ham and /or cheese. I have promised my feet I will air them every 2 hours and they love me for it.
The closed pine path opened up into a road way which was very difficult to walk. It was helped along by walking with the Acadian couple and the wife of the other french couple from James Bay / Amoss/ She came up to me and said she had been wanting to talk with someone from Vancouver. She said that she felt very proud to be a canadian during the olympics. It brought Canada together and she could not say enough good things about how it unfolded. It was nice to hear.
The day grated as we walked a good 12km through this roadway. I had to move on another 2/3 km. to Ages, so by the time I arrived, I was pretty exhausted and other parts of my feet were making noises.
After my disaster with the computer in the aubergue, I headed to bed around 8 pm and felt better int he morning.
Today, I began again in the dark but this time lit by a full moon. Somehow it felt comforting. I could see several groups of people walking ahead on the roadway. Today would be almost all on paved road, which isn't quite so exciting and it is very hard on the body. I met another Norwegian who looked uncannily like my brother, beard and all. Since he was 52, his was still red as was Robert's at that age. His age caught me unawares, as it reminded me of the age when my father died. I guess having time to reflect brings to mind some of these things hidden in the recesses of our inner life.
At another stop, I stopped to get some breakfast. I love their tortillas / it seems to be an egg/almost omelette, although it seems to have some levening, and it is filled with cooked potato. Sometimes it comes between a piece of french bread. I met a Spanish couple who were cycling the Camino to Burgos. He was quite keen to speak English and we got into a good conversation for almost an hour. They have visited Canada before going eastward and next time want to head west. They were delightful.
The walk into Burgos was very tedious on a fairly main road and then through industrial area. The city is quite big// 170,000, so it was a long way.
I visited the Cathedral which is a stunning baroque structure with amazing art work. The organist was playing while visitors explored the many chapels and museum pieces. After picking up some supplies, I headed to the hotel Jim had discovered ont he internet. It was in the University area which was about an hour out of town, so I took a bus there, my feet not being too happy at having to walk any more. I still have some blister challenges, but nothing like the pinkies, so very managable. I managed to make it under the wire for the lunch menu, which is a 3 course menue from 2to 4, which means you don´t need to wait until 8 or 8:30 to eat. The dining room was quite exclusive and expensive, and although pilgrims are not plentiful around here, I asked the waiter if they had a menu peregrino. I had a delicious 3 course dinner including wine for 13Euros. Bonanza!
So now, its off to Hornillos del Camino tomorrow, and a new adventure in exploring the Meseta.
Good night all. Buen Camino (to me, and all my fellow pilgrims :), . Heather
I met a Spanish couple
I will try this one more time. I arrived into Burgos early afternoon. The entrance to the city is through a very boring industrial area, then through the streets to the center of town where the Cathedral is located. But I will retrace my steps from Belorado to Ages.
When I awakened in Belorado, I could smell fire and wondered if a building was on fire. The inn keeper informed me that that was from the bakery where they make their daily pan (bread.) So no wonder it is so good, they bake it in wood ovens. I left the inn at 7 am in the dark. I found it difficult to find the symbols that guide us along the camino, so I went into a hotel to ask. There were many pilgrims there, including a German woman named Suzanne I had met the previous day. I decided to have some breakfast with her first then head off. We had to go along the highway for a while before turning off onto the trail, which held closely to a busy highway. As we moved from the roadway to the trail, we met Erica, the Swiss woman who has walked from Switzerland. Her image will forever be etched in my mind as she radiates enthusiasm. Because she is Germanic Swiss and Suzanne is German, the two of them began speaking rapidly in German. A Frenchman was walking along at the same time, so we talked a bit, and then they all left me in their dust. I was still nursing my blisters, so I was happy to walk at my own pace.
THe fields were rolling hills of cut hay and a farmer was ploughing a very large field adjacent to the path. It struck me that this journey is allowing old fields within me to be ploughed under preparing for the planting of new seeds in another season.
As I walked along a young tall blonde man came up beside me and spoke English. He was from Norway and just graduated from highschool. He is walking to Santiago, then heading to Paris, and then to India in an effort to discover the direction he wants to take his life. We made an easy connection and soon got into a very philosophical conversation. Such wisdom in so young a person. I have no doubt he will discover his path succussfully.
Part of our journey took us on a path through the cut hay field. It created a beautiful sight seeing all these people walking across golden fields. I have met people from Israel, Ireland, France, Italy, Britain, South Africa, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, New Zealand, US, and Canada. / I might have missed a few. Everyone greets each other by Ola, then Buen Camino. It does not matter what language is spoken, those greetings are exchanged automatically, usually with a smile. It's quite amazing.
When I stopped for a tea at a little cafe, I met a couple from New Brunswick/ from Acadia and we walked together for a while. They have both done the CAmino before, and the husband another time before that from France / over 60 days.
The rolling fields shifted into a steep climb on a very rocky path. Once again the path was lined with swaths of heather, some coming into bloom and others dying out from its blooming period. Ferns also abounded. There was a feel of out for a sunday stroll as we entered a pine forest which looked like it had been planted possibly 10 years before. I stopped for a little picnic with a boccodillo / sandwich made from a loaf of french bread and often ham and /or cheese. I have promised my feet I will air them every 2 hours and they love me for it.
The closed pine path opened up into a road way which was very difficult to walk. It was helped along by walking with the Acadian couple and the wife of the other french couple from James Bay / Amoss/ She came up to me and said she had been wanting to talk with someone from Vancouver. She said that she felt very proud to be a canadian during the olympics. It brought Canada together and she could not say enough good things about how it unfolded. It was nice to hear.
The day grated as we walked a good 12km through this roadway. I had to move on another 2/3 km. to Ages, so by the time I arrived, I was pretty exhausted and other parts of my feet were making noises.
After my disaster with the computer in the aubergue, I headed to bed around 8 pm and felt better int he morning.
Today, I began again in the dark but this time lit by a full moon. Somehow it felt comforting. I could see several groups of people walking ahead on the roadway. Today would be almost all on paved road, which isn't quite so exciting and it is very hard on the body. I met another Norwegian who looked uncannily like my brother, beard and all. Since he was 52, his was still red as was Robert's at that age. His age caught me unawares, as it reminded me of the age when my father died. I guess having time to reflect brings to mind some of these things hidden in the recesses of our inner life.
At another stop, I stopped to get some breakfast. I love their tortillas / it seems to be an egg/almost omelette, although it seems to have some levening, and it is filled with cooked potato. Sometimes it comes between a piece of french bread. I met a Spanish couple who were cycling the Camino to Burgos. He was quite keen to speak English and we got into a good conversation for almost an hour. They have visited Canada before going eastward and next time want to head west. They were delightful.
The walk into Burgos was very tedious on a fairly main road and then through industrial area. The city is quite big// 170,000, so it was a long way.
I visited the Cathedral which is a stunning baroque structure with amazing art work. The organist was playing while visitors explored the many chapels and museum pieces. After picking up some supplies, I headed to the hotel Jim had discovered ont he internet. It was in the University area which was about an hour out of town, so I took a bus there, my feet not being too happy at having to walk any more. I still have some blister challenges, but nothing like the pinkies, so very managable. I managed to make it under the wire for the lunch menu, which is a 3 course menue from 2to 4, which means you don´t need to wait until 8 or 8:30 to eat. The dining room was quite exclusive and expensive, and although pilgrims are not plentiful around here, I asked the waiter if they had a menu peregrino. I had a delicious 3 course dinner including wine for 13Euros. Bonanza!
So now, its off to Hornillos del Camino tomorrow, and a new adventure in exploring the Meseta.
Good night all. Buen Camino (to me, and all my fellow pilgrims :), . Heather
I met a Spanish couple
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