Dear Family and Friends
I am thankful you are all in my life.
Thank you for your love and support.
Canons? Went off at 4am.....
It is calling for sun in Santiago for the rest of the week....
Life is good. Heather
Sunday, October 10, 2010
O Cebreiro/ Triacastela
Dear Family and Friends
Tonight I am at Triacastela in a funky old Pensione that smells ancient. Not bad, just old - sort of like the stacks at a university. The key is a skeleton key that looks like it was used in the middle ages. The bathroom, though simple, is updated and the water is lovely and warm, even of the room isn't. Still, I am lucky to have a bed. Tuesday is a National holiday in Spain, so it seems a though all the hotels, hostels and Albergues are filled to capacity. People are being put on mattresses on the floor and some have taken a taxi to the next town hoping to find a bed.
Friday morning in Los Herrerios I awoke in the rain and went down to the bar to get some breakfast later than usual. I knew much of the trail was in the woods so I needed light. I also knew I had a shorter day. The first part was on the road with considerable incline, then the road divided - the trail for walkers and the road for bikers.
I had met up with the Spanish friend of my Brazilian friends. His name in Spanish is Haime (James - like the Apostle). He told me he has done the Camino 10 times. The first was in 1948 by steam train. There he met a "real pilgrim" who had walked from Belgium to Santiago and made a real impression on him. He first walked the Camino with his son and grandson in 1999 when he
retired.
On this steep rocky path in the rain, this man just flew. He was like a mountain goat and was at least 10 years my senior. My training on Giant's Head and Grouse served me well, for I was able to stay close behind, but when he and the Brazilian couple stopped at the next village, I continued on. It was still very overcast but was lightening up. Some time later the clouds lifted and the magnificence of the intersecting mountains revealed itself. It was exquisite. The climb was significant and when I arrived at the next village I was sure I had arrived at OCebreiro and thought this is very small, bit I learned I still had several km to go. I stopped for a coke and headed out once again on the rain.
I met man pulling a suitcase on wheels in the opposite direction just about where there is a sign marking entrance into Galicia. I stopped to talk to him and learned he had left from Poland in June, had arrived to Santiago and was now returning to Germany. He hoped to get there by Christmas.
From here the trail flattened out and it was an easy 2 km to O Cebreiro.
A rock wall guided the path and soon I saw a large group of people with umbrellas and then a big Tour bus. The place was crawling with people.
My first stop was at the church to get my credential stamped. There was a service going on so I stopped and joined in for some time. This church is said to have housed the Holy Grail ( Christ's chalice after the crucifixion.
Eventually I found the right bar where I was to register for my hostal. I waited a good 2
hours before I was led to my room because there was only one man working and the bar was
constantly crowded with people wanting drinks and food. That was when I made my last post.
Once settled into my room, showered and my laundry washed and hanging in my room in the sun which had reappeared, I went out to explore and get some food.
The lunch menu, the same as the dinner menu, is available before 4 pm so you don't need to wait till 8 pm. I had had a restaurant recommended to me and I headed there. It was very crowded and I was guided to a table where an Italian cyclist was eating. He had a dish special to Galicia, pulpo a la gallega - steamed octopus sliced, sprinkled with paprika and served on a wooden platter. I ordered the same, happy to have a change from the pilgrim menu. It was delicious! Then, for dessert, a special soft cheese with a thick honey poured over it. It too was delicious. The Italian had left by this time since he was heading for Sarria which was a good 40 more km.
The day had turned out spectacularly with the sun shining revealing the beautiful mountainous countryside. I met a man from Parry Sound who with his wife had arranged for bikes at Ponderrada. They had done no training and spent most of the time walking their bikes up the hills.... Everyone finds their own way to do the camino.
The rest of the time I O Cebreiro was pretty low key. I realized I had set up expectations of my time there. I visited with various people and looked around to see If bagpipes were being played, and eventually headed to bed, only to discover today from Suzie and Pierre that they saw the pipes being played in a bar close to the albergue. I'm sorry I misses them
but at least I saw them on Leon.
Today turned out to be a beautiful day. I left OCebreiro around 8:30 and followed a pretty mud path through the trees. I came upon another Canadian from Edmonton who has been doing the Camino in sections. She started in Aatorga this time and will finish in Santiago.
Haime caught up with me and I walked with him for some time, but his pace was too fast for me. He informed me that we were walking at 4.7 km/hour. There was an astounding number of people on the trail today, many with no packs walking along quickly and often in packs. Haime called them " plastic pilgrims".
I stopped for breakfast and met up with Suzie and Pierre several times as our breaks were a little out of step. Walking along the paths that wound through the steep sloping mountains, I felt like "Heidi" walking in the mountains of my girlhood fantasies. It was brilliant. Walking with Suzie at one point she was singing music from the sound of music. It was that kind of day.
I met up with a French woman whom I have met up with several time. This poor woman has been plagued with bed bugs and has had another episode and was looking for a place with a washing machine to wash all her things again. The bed big stories keep mounting. My photographer
friend from south Korea with whom I sat on the train to St Jean has battled them for 2 weeks and went to the hospital in Astorga and was given an injection which cleared them up and she believes has made her immune to them- with limited English that's all the info I got. But the bedbug situation is bad. One woman told me the Camino is going to be shut down in December and all the albergues fumigated. Many believe that would be a very good idea. Hostals might be a good choice afterall.
Coming into Triacastela tonight SuZie and I heard what we thought were gunshots since hunting season for wild boar has just begun, bit it was infact fireworks for this holiday time.
Today marks the last week of my journey to Santiago. I will arrive one week today. I must say that although this has been a very exciting journey, I am counting the days till I return home. Tomorrow I head for Sarria.
Goodnight from the Camino. Heather
Tonight I am at Triacastela in a funky old Pensione that smells ancient. Not bad, just old - sort of like the stacks at a university. The key is a skeleton key that looks like it was used in the middle ages. The bathroom, though simple, is updated and the water is lovely and warm, even of the room isn't. Still, I am lucky to have a bed. Tuesday is a National holiday in Spain, so it seems a though all the hotels, hostels and Albergues are filled to capacity. People are being put on mattresses on the floor and some have taken a taxi to the next town hoping to find a bed.
Friday morning in Los Herrerios I awoke in the rain and went down to the bar to get some breakfast later than usual. I knew much of the trail was in the woods so I needed light. I also knew I had a shorter day. The first part was on the road with considerable incline, then the road divided - the trail for walkers and the road for bikers.
I had met up with the Spanish friend of my Brazilian friends. His name in Spanish is Haime (James - like the Apostle). He told me he has done the Camino 10 times. The first was in 1948 by steam train. There he met a "real pilgrim" who had walked from Belgium to Santiago and made a real impression on him. He first walked the Camino with his son and grandson in 1999 when he
retired.
On this steep rocky path in the rain, this man just flew. He was like a mountain goat and was at least 10 years my senior. My training on Giant's Head and Grouse served me well, for I was able to stay close behind, but when he and the Brazilian couple stopped at the next village, I continued on. It was still very overcast but was lightening up. Some time later the clouds lifted and the magnificence of the intersecting mountains revealed itself. It was exquisite. The climb was significant and when I arrived at the next village I was sure I had arrived at OCebreiro and thought this is very small, bit I learned I still had several km to go. I stopped for a coke and headed out once again on the rain.
I met man pulling a suitcase on wheels in the opposite direction just about where there is a sign marking entrance into Galicia. I stopped to talk to him and learned he had left from Poland in June, had arrived to Santiago and was now returning to Germany. He hoped to get there by Christmas.
From here the trail flattened out and it was an easy 2 km to O Cebreiro.
A rock wall guided the path and soon I saw a large group of people with umbrellas and then a big Tour bus. The place was crawling with people.
My first stop was at the church to get my credential stamped. There was a service going on so I stopped and joined in for some time. This church is said to have housed the Holy Grail ( Christ's chalice after the crucifixion.
Eventually I found the right bar where I was to register for my hostal. I waited a good 2
hours before I was led to my room because there was only one man working and the bar was
constantly crowded with people wanting drinks and food. That was when I made my last post.
Once settled into my room, showered and my laundry washed and hanging in my room in the sun which had reappeared, I went out to explore and get some food.
The lunch menu, the same as the dinner menu, is available before 4 pm so you don't need to wait till 8 pm. I had had a restaurant recommended to me and I headed there. It was very crowded and I was guided to a table where an Italian cyclist was eating. He had a dish special to Galicia, pulpo a la gallega - steamed octopus sliced, sprinkled with paprika and served on a wooden platter. I ordered the same, happy to have a change from the pilgrim menu. It was delicious! Then, for dessert, a special soft cheese with a thick honey poured over it. It too was delicious. The Italian had left by this time since he was heading for Sarria which was a good 40 more km.
The day had turned out spectacularly with the sun shining revealing the beautiful mountainous countryside. I met a man from Parry Sound who with his wife had arranged for bikes at Ponderrada. They had done no training and spent most of the time walking their bikes up the hills.... Everyone finds their own way to do the camino.
The rest of the time I O Cebreiro was pretty low key. I realized I had set up expectations of my time there. I visited with various people and looked around to see If bagpipes were being played, and eventually headed to bed, only to discover today from Suzie and Pierre that they saw the pipes being played in a bar close to the albergue. I'm sorry I misses them
but at least I saw them on Leon.
Today turned out to be a beautiful day. I left OCebreiro around 8:30 and followed a pretty mud path through the trees. I came upon another Canadian from Edmonton who has been doing the Camino in sections. She started in Aatorga this time and will finish in Santiago.
Haime caught up with me and I walked with him for some time, but his pace was too fast for me. He informed me that we were walking at 4.7 km/hour. There was an astounding number of people on the trail today, many with no packs walking along quickly and often in packs. Haime called them " plastic pilgrims".
I stopped for breakfast and met up with Suzie and Pierre several times as our breaks were a little out of step. Walking along the paths that wound through the steep sloping mountains, I felt like "Heidi" walking in the mountains of my girlhood fantasies. It was brilliant. Walking with Suzie at one point she was singing music from the sound of music. It was that kind of day.
I met up with a French woman whom I have met up with several time. This poor woman has been plagued with bed bugs and has had another episode and was looking for a place with a washing machine to wash all her things again. The bed big stories keep mounting. My photographer
friend from south Korea with whom I sat on the train to St Jean has battled them for 2 weeks and went to the hospital in Astorga and was given an injection which cleared them up and she believes has made her immune to them- with limited English that's all the info I got. But the bedbug situation is bad. One woman told me the Camino is going to be shut down in December and all the albergues fumigated. Many believe that would be a very good idea. Hostals might be a good choice afterall.
Coming into Triacastela tonight SuZie and I heard what we thought were gunshots since hunting season for wild boar has just begun, bit it was infact fireworks for this holiday time.
Today marks the last week of my journey to Santiago. I will arrive one week today. I must say that although this has been a very exciting journey, I am counting the days till I return home. Tomorrow I head for Sarria.
Goodnight from the Camino. Heather
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Las Herrerias de Valcarce
Dear Friends and Family,
This was a particularly difficult day for me and a low point on my Camino journey. I left Cacabelos at 7 30 wearing my sandals to keep my "lowly toe / the one next to my big one happy. The quick and steep descent into Molinaseca compromised it's good feelings...." It was very warm/ 18 degrees C. THe previous day was up to 26 degrees. At an early point on the road I met up with Suzie and Pierre, my French Canadian friends. We walked along the road a bit, then decided to move inland to the vinyards enroute to Villa franca del Bierzo. It was a beautiful route, with many vinyards and rolling hills. It was a dirt track, but very walkable. As light broke, the clouds seemed to lift and blue sky showed itself. At one point the sun came out and lit up the landscape.
When we arrived in Villafranca.....I had a hot chocolate and a tortilla. As we sat there, the clouds started rolling in and it appeared as though rain was immanent. I decided to put on my boots. There was a route over the mountains that missed many of the towns, but promised to be very beautiful. They and I made the decision not to follow this route. I was feeling very tired this day, and decided to take the path by the road. THere would be many times I would regret the decision, still, I'm not sure it would have been a good decision to have taken the steep route in the country. It did begin to rain in earnest, and it would have been very mucky. Still, walking along the highway was not very pleasurable / a route without soul save for a babbling brook to the left of our walk. At one point the road divided and took a route into Pereie. It was a contryroad with big trees that led into an interesting town. At one point we could smell wine. THe doors were open to a black hole with a stick pointing out. We looked in and then saw two feet above the hole. In the hole were wines still in their skins. The pole had 3 prongs that was used for crushing. I took out my camera to take a picture and the man became VERY adamant I not take a picture, pulled out the pole and closed it all up. We speculated that perhaps the winemaking was not legitimate. Soon we found a cafe and stopped once again. I ordered a boccadilla. Pierre and Suzie had ordered a beer. Totally out of character, I also ordered a small beer. Soon we headed out and the town met up with the original road.
Suzie and I switched between French and English talking about all sorts of things, but I was so tired I could hardly think in French any more. At the next town, I left them to have their lunch and I carried on my way since I had much further to go than they did. It was a little like walking along a fairly major 2 to 4 lane highway by this point, with breaks for interchanges. Eventually I came to Trabadelo, where I met a number of people I had come to know enroute, including the south koreans who had sung me down to Molinaseca. It was there I learned I still had 5 km to go. By this time is was raining very hard. I stopped long enough for a coke and a little visit, then headed along my way. Towns at this point on the trail were like little hamlets, established along the roadway, with a few houses moving back beyond the main road. THere were some very new and modern houses and I stopped at one which was also a bakery to buy a piece of cake. I was looking for whatever I could to keep me going.3more villages to go before I found my place for the night. By this time it was getting late around 4 pm. I stopped by the river at one point, listening to the river, trying to take in some of its flowing energy. I was feeling the accumulation of several long days of walking. By 5 45
Eventually I came to Las Herrerias, but it was still a long walk into the blended town with >Hospital> .....none of the keys are where they are supposed to be here.....sorry for all the hyroglyphics....... I was struck by all the bulls I saw in the pens yet I could see no cows. Eventually I asked for the place I was to stay. A forlorn looking place greeted me, not what I was hoping for. She led me up to a very cold room with no heat. I asked about weefee and there was not any, nor was there a computer in the whole valley. ANd it was pouring rain. I went inside my room, sat on the bed and cried. It felt like it was all too much at that point. I also realized how I had come to rely on my internet connection. JIm had been a very regular supporter that I could rely on and when I really needed him, it was not available.
AFter a bit of a rest, I showered with nice warm water, changed and felt much better. I rested for a bit, gave my feet their loving attention, then ventured down stairs to get warm and ask about heat.
I was met with what seemed like a barrage of Spanish, but was just my incomprehension. I ordered a hot chocolate and the Senora poured attention onto me. By this time it was after 6. She made a fire and had me sit next to it. THen she brought out a delicious soup which is very regional here...beans, potato and green leafy vegetable. It was delicious and exactly what I needed. THere was only the one young woman with her daughter, who appeared to be about 9 or 10. It was the daughter who poured my glass of wine. AS I was eating dinner, a British couple came in and ordered a glass of wine. I learned that they were staying there and acting as support for the woman's cousin who was doing the camino by bicycle. He was finding it very diffiuclt and was finding he had to push his bicycle uphill one too many times.
By 8 pm, the dining room was filled with what seemed to be the whole family. THere were at least 3 generations involved, along with many other family members. THe place had a very good feel and my feelings had been transformed to gratitude for receiving all that I| needed. I went upstairs about 8 and went to bed soon after. I was ready for the next stage....a short_ climb to O Cebreiro where I would spend saturday night. Goodnight from the Camino. Heather
This was a particularly difficult day for me and a low point on my Camino journey. I left Cacabelos at 7 30 wearing my sandals to keep my "lowly toe / the one next to my big one happy. The quick and steep descent into Molinaseca compromised it's good feelings...." It was very warm/ 18 degrees C. THe previous day was up to 26 degrees. At an early point on the road I met up with Suzie and Pierre, my French Canadian friends. We walked along the road a bit, then decided to move inland to the vinyards enroute to Villa franca del Bierzo. It was a beautiful route, with many vinyards and rolling hills. It was a dirt track, but very walkable. As light broke, the clouds seemed to lift and blue sky showed itself. At one point the sun came out and lit up the landscape.
When we arrived in Villafranca.....I had a hot chocolate and a tortilla. As we sat there, the clouds started rolling in and it appeared as though rain was immanent. I decided to put on my boots. There was a route over the mountains that missed many of the towns, but promised to be very beautiful. They and I made the decision not to follow this route. I was feeling very tired this day, and decided to take the path by the road. THere would be many times I would regret the decision, still, I'm not sure it would have been a good decision to have taken the steep route in the country. It did begin to rain in earnest, and it would have been very mucky. Still, walking along the highway was not very pleasurable / a route without soul save for a babbling brook to the left of our walk. At one point the road divided and took a route into Pereie. It was a contryroad with big trees that led into an interesting town. At one point we could smell wine. THe doors were open to a black hole with a stick pointing out. We looked in and then saw two feet above the hole. In the hole were wines still in their skins. The pole had 3 prongs that was used for crushing. I took out my camera to take a picture and the man became VERY adamant I not take a picture, pulled out the pole and closed it all up. We speculated that perhaps the winemaking was not legitimate. Soon we found a cafe and stopped once again. I ordered a boccadilla. Pierre and Suzie had ordered a beer. Totally out of character, I also ordered a small beer. Soon we headed out and the town met up with the original road.
Suzie and I switched between French and English talking about all sorts of things, but I was so tired I could hardly think in French any more. At the next town, I left them to have their lunch and I carried on my way since I had much further to go than they did. It was a little like walking along a fairly major 2 to 4 lane highway by this point, with breaks for interchanges. Eventually I came to Trabadelo, where I met a number of people I had come to know enroute, including the south koreans who had sung me down to Molinaseca. It was there I learned I still had 5 km to go. By this time is was raining very hard. I stopped long enough for a coke and a little visit, then headed along my way. Towns at this point on the trail were like little hamlets, established along the roadway, with a few houses moving back beyond the main road. THere were some very new and modern houses and I stopped at one which was also a bakery to buy a piece of cake. I was looking for whatever I could to keep me going.3more villages to go before I found my place for the night. By this time it was getting late around 4 pm. I stopped by the river at one point, listening to the river, trying to take in some of its flowing energy. I was feeling the accumulation of several long days of walking. By 5 45
Eventually I came to Las Herrerias, but it was still a long walk into the blended town with >Hospital> .....none of the keys are where they are supposed to be here.....sorry for all the hyroglyphics....... I was struck by all the bulls I saw in the pens yet I could see no cows. Eventually I asked for the place I was to stay. A forlorn looking place greeted me, not what I was hoping for. She led me up to a very cold room with no heat. I asked about weefee and there was not any, nor was there a computer in the whole valley. ANd it was pouring rain. I went inside my room, sat on the bed and cried. It felt like it was all too much at that point. I also realized how I had come to rely on my internet connection. JIm had been a very regular supporter that I could rely on and when I really needed him, it was not available.
AFter a bit of a rest, I showered with nice warm water, changed and felt much better. I rested for a bit, gave my feet their loving attention, then ventured down stairs to get warm and ask about heat.
I was met with what seemed like a barrage of Spanish, but was just my incomprehension. I ordered a hot chocolate and the Senora poured attention onto me. By this time it was after 6. She made a fire and had me sit next to it. THen she brought out a delicious soup which is very regional here...beans, potato and green leafy vegetable. It was delicious and exactly what I needed. THere was only the one young woman with her daughter, who appeared to be about 9 or 10. It was the daughter who poured my glass of wine. AS I was eating dinner, a British couple came in and ordered a glass of wine. I learned that they were staying there and acting as support for the woman's cousin who was doing the camino by bicycle. He was finding it very diffiuclt and was finding he had to push his bicycle uphill one too many times.
By 8 pm, the dining room was filled with what seemed to be the whole family. THere were at least 3 generations involved, along with many other family members. THe place had a very good feel and my feelings had been transformed to gratitude for receiving all that I| needed. I went upstairs about 8 and went to bed soon after. I was ready for the next stage....a short_ climb to O Cebreiro where I would spend saturday night. Goodnight from the Camino. Heather
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Previous post was premature
I knew I still had to walk almost 18km, and given the normal rate of 4km per hour, I wouldn't get to Cacabelos till at least 4 and I still needed to pick up some lunch and change into lighter pants since the sun had come out. I was realizing this was going to be a long and possibly hard walk due to the late hour.
But as I was finding my way put of town, I heard my name and was delighted to see Vered, a lovely Israeli woman now living in Amsterdam. We had visited previous days and I had left her yesterday at the town before the final descent into Molinaseca.
She too was heading to Cacabelos, so we each were delighted to have company and a chance to visit. This was a woman who barely walked a block at home. She was delighted to have caught up with me since I was the last one she saw yesterday when she decided to stay and she was on her way to walking 29km. We had a jolly good walk together, stopping for a rest and foot rubdown.
We were once again into wine country and rolling hills along dirt tracks.
Outside cacabelos a farmer took Vered and I aside along a row of apple trees, and offered us each little apples. Although small and green, they were delicious. I realized I was famished and exhausted by the time I arrived.
Vered and I celebrated her 29km with yet another pilgims dinner, though the soup was delicious. And now it is time to turn in. Tomorrow is another longish day to a little Hamlet of Los Harrerias and 167.5km from Santiago.
Good night from the Camino. Heather
But as I was finding my way put of town, I heard my name and was delighted to see Vered, a lovely Israeli woman now living in Amsterdam. We had visited previous days and I had left her yesterday at the town before the final descent into Molinaseca.
She too was heading to Cacabelos, so we each were delighted to have company and a chance to visit. This was a woman who barely walked a block at home. She was delighted to have caught up with me since I was the last one she saw yesterday when she decided to stay and she was on her way to walking 29km. We had a jolly good walk together, stopping for a rest and foot rubdown.
We were once again into wine country and rolling hills along dirt tracks.
Outside cacabelos a farmer took Vered and I aside along a row of apple trees, and offered us each little apples. Although small and green, they were delicious. I realized I was famished and exhausted by the time I arrived.
Vered and I celebrated her 29km with yet another pilgims dinner, though the soup was delicious. And now it is time to turn in. Tomorrow is another longish day to a little Hamlet of Los Harrerias and 167.5km from Santiago.
Good night from the Camino. Heather
Cacabelos
Dear Family and Friends
Sometimes when I head out in the morning I wonder if this might just be an ordinary day and really have nothing to report. But it just never seems to happen. Though part of me does not really believe it is just the camino. I wonder if I walked around Vancouver instead of going at lightening speed if many amazing things might just as easily happen at home. Something to think about.
Well, as I walked out of my door, clothes all nicely washed and dried from the very soggy previos day, the first thing I noticed was a woman outside in her beautiful courtyard roasting red peppers over a heater with a grate about 3' in diameter. I stopped to take a picture and wondered what she was making? This was around 7:30 in the morning.
I headed out of town, admiring the grand houses with shuttered windows that lay behind iron fences. The young Italian man I ran across several times since Leon was walking on the other side if the street. He stood out on my mind because he reminded me of my nephew Stewart. After talking from a distance, he came to my aide of the street so we could talk more easily.
I learned he was at school in Milan taking "science materials " which was as he described, is
physics. We took a small road off the main road and walked through gently rolling wine country. David and I got into discussions about quantum physics, Jung and Pauli - oh yes, and cooking. His mother is from the South of Italy and his father from the north, so he has rich influences. The conversation brought is quickly to Ponferrada where we stopped for a hot chocolate. It was so thick and rich, a spoon could almost stand up in it. A Spanish man I met previously told me it was a drink from Madrid, but David told me that his mother (in Milan) taught him how to make it, so perhaps because it is so good, everyone claims it.
The cafe was filled with pilgrims, many I had met before. A Danish fellow came in who was resting I'm Ponferrada for a day because of persistent swelling of one of his shins. He told me he had taken his family to Vancouver, Victoria, revelstoke, Banff, and San Francisco this summer. He was walking the Camino to try to figure out what he wanted to do/work at in his life. David and I parted ways as I decided to wait till 11 o'clock when the Castle opened. I could just imagine my two grandsons walking through a very real life castle. It was very exciting - even for a Nana. This was a castle where the Knights Templar gave safety and refuge to Pilgrims in the Middle Ages heading to Santiago.
Another treasure found in Ponferrada is a small Madonna - Virgin de la Encina which the Knights Templar apparently found in a wooden tree they were cutting down while building the castle. It is now housed in the Basilica in the town square. I went in to see her, and realized that a mass was soon to occur. I sat down in a pew and said a few prayers for family and friends at home who have need of support. There was a very peaceful feel about the church and I hated to leave.
I had spent a good 2 hours waiting for the castle to open
he had taken his
Sometimes when I head out in the morning I wonder if this might just be an ordinary day and really have nothing to report. But it just never seems to happen. Though part of me does not really believe it is just the camino. I wonder if I walked around Vancouver instead of going at lightening speed if many amazing things might just as easily happen at home. Something to think about.
Well, as I walked out of my door, clothes all nicely washed and dried from the very soggy previos day, the first thing I noticed was a woman outside in her beautiful courtyard roasting red peppers over a heater with a grate about 3' in diameter. I stopped to take a picture and wondered what she was making? This was around 7:30 in the morning.
I headed out of town, admiring the grand houses with shuttered windows that lay behind iron fences. The young Italian man I ran across several times since Leon was walking on the other side if the street. He stood out on my mind because he reminded me of my nephew Stewart. After talking from a distance, he came to my aide of the street so we could talk more easily.
I learned he was at school in Milan taking "science materials " which was as he described, is
physics. We took a small road off the main road and walked through gently rolling wine country. David and I got into discussions about quantum physics, Jung and Pauli - oh yes, and cooking. His mother is from the South of Italy and his father from the north, so he has rich influences. The conversation brought is quickly to Ponferrada where we stopped for a hot chocolate. It was so thick and rich, a spoon could almost stand up in it. A Spanish man I met previously told me it was a drink from Madrid, but David told me that his mother (in Milan) taught him how to make it, so perhaps because it is so good, everyone claims it.
The cafe was filled with pilgrims, many I had met before. A Danish fellow came in who was resting I'm Ponferrada for a day because of persistent swelling of one of his shins. He told me he had taken his family to Vancouver, Victoria, revelstoke, Banff, and San Francisco this summer. He was walking the Camino to try to figure out what he wanted to do/work at in his life. David and I parted ways as I decided to wait till 11 o'clock when the Castle opened. I could just imagine my two grandsons walking through a very real life castle. It was very exciting - even for a Nana. This was a castle where the Knights Templar gave safety and refuge to Pilgrims in the Middle Ages heading to Santiago.
Another treasure found in Ponferrada is a small Madonna - Virgin de la Encina which the Knights Templar apparently found in a wooden tree they were cutting down while building the castle. It is now housed in the Basilica in the town square. I went in to see her, and realized that a mass was soon to occur. I sat down in a pew and said a few prayers for family and friends at home who have need of support. There was a very peaceful feel about the church and I hated to leave.
I had spent a good 2 hours waiting for the castle to open
he had taken his
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Rabanal del Camino/ Molinaseca
Dear Friends and Family
There was no weefee available last night, so was not able to make a post. I did not say anything on my last post about my feet, and feel I should because we walked 27km that day and then another 27km today. I must say they have been real troopers, though it is very different from the beginning. We have many conversations now and I consult my feet on these long treks. On that former long day, I did stop several times to air,Examine, massage and occasionally cream my feet. Also, for the last 4km I changed into my sandals which made them very happy.
Many times I have been reminded by a favourite miller childhood story called "Theres no such thing as a dragon". Billy tells his mother there is a dragon in his room and mother tells him there's no such thing as a dragon. Several times she repeats this as the dragon continues to grow until it takes up the whole house. The last scene shows a small dragon on mothers lap and she says she doesn't mind dragons this size and she couldn't understand why he had to grow so big. In Billys childhood wisdom, he says he thinks the dragon just wants to be noticed.
A wonderful metaphor for many things, and certainly for my feet. It's a relationship like any other- we all want to be noticed and respected, and now I respect the deeper wisdom of my feet
even when my will/mind wants to take over.
Astorga was a beautiful town and I left later than usual yesterday morning. The moon was just a sliver. It was cool as the sun rose to reveal a tree lined street splendid in fall colours of orange and gold. Our path was beside a path where many teams were out for their morning run.
I stopped a couple of times to have a tortilla and tea, then a bocodilla and coke for lunch. Marie caught up with me a couple of times, but I was having a very pensive day. I was reflecting on why I was doing this Camino.
One reason was that I wanted to trust the wisdom of my body and to be guided from that place. And my feet certainly have been helping me along with that one. In fact at one point I stopped and put on my sandals- we were feeling very free and the sun was glorious.
But there is also a reality in my life that I have had a lot of difficulty in honouring myself and claiming my own authority in my life. It has led me to seek out many things and become a bit of an eternal student. But of course those achievements are in large part external; as well this lack of belief has kept me from putting myself out in the world- almost a fear of being judged.
As I was walking along the trail, the valley opened up to reveal a large swath of purple heather in bloom. As I walked along more and more became apparent. It was almost overwhelming, but I was transfixed by the magnitude of it all. It extended as far as I could see and beyond. The scene said to me, there is heather in all it's/your glory. Not in a narcissistic way, but in a graphic honouring. And I felt I took it in in a new way in every cell of my body. It was an amazing recognition for me that brought me to tears. It also struck me that I did not have that same recognition when Margo and I were in the highlands of Scotland but then I was in a very different place this time.
Then the path narrowed and we walked along a protected path beside a wire fence. All over the fence were crosses made out sticks and decorated with mosses, leaves, heather and all sorts of creative presentations. The walkway must of extended for 1-2 km. And the fence was covered with these little altars. An honouring of human connections- of tributes, prayers, love, loss, hope. This Camino is much more than a religious journey even in a Holy Year. It is about soul. Of what is truly important in peoples lives. And because it is a long journey involving each persons body, this path is about embodying soul. It Gives me a great deal of hope for our world and our humanity. I stopped to place a few of my own crosses for friends and loved ones.
Today was a very rich journey and U appreciated the solitude.
A special dish of this area is called Cocido Maragato - a topsy turvy dinner with the meat course first followed by vegetables then soup. Encouraged by my Brazilian friends I decided to try it. The meat was all sorts of pork- feet, ear, knuckle, hock- all well cooked and very tasty- but enough to feed an army. I ate my fill then took the rest to some south Korean friends who delighted in it. The vegetables were cabbage and chick peas and the soup like a pale chicken noodle soup. I'm happy I tried it, but once is enough.
I had dinner with a woman I had crossed paths with many times, but she spoke french in such a quiet voice I didn't have a lot of confidence in communicating with her. I learned she is SwissAllemagn and has just retired as a social worker. We got on famously and had lots of laughs together.
I started out early this morning in the dark and in the rain. It would be another long day- 27km and rising to 1500m then back down to a steep descent to Molinaseca. As I started to climb I realized I needed to tale off my inner jacket so I decided to stop at the next appropriate stop. I could see a tree up ahead then saw something that made me laugh. Tied to the tree was a swing- with with red seat. I took off my pack and looked closer at the seat and it said,"play!". I got on the swing and laughed and laughed. I pumped so I went higher and higher - and looked up at the sky through the branches. It was the best! I felt it was a gift just for me - it couldn't be more appropriate. My grandchildren would have loved to see their Nana swinging... I thought of that many times today and laughed. It was great. This is some Camino.
With the rain getting harder I eagerly arrived at the first town Foncebaden only to discover they only had tostadas (toast) to eat. Still it was warm and the tea tasted good. After this I arrived at the Cruz de Ferro - a place where pilgrims leave stones they have brought from home and also messages, altars, and many rejected boots. It apparently was something the celts used to do- place stones as a way of appeasing the mountain gods and to ask for safe passage through the mountains. Astrid- my Germanic Swiss friend from the night before - and I walked to the Cruz de Ferro, then along down the mountain. The path was slick and rocky. Astrid chose the road solely. I wove on and out of the trail, but after afancy ballet move
chose the roadway for some distance. It was hard on the body and pretty uninteresting with the exception of there being once again Heather plants, bit this time big bushes 2-3 ft tall and covered with new growth and many ready to bloom. It continued to warm my heart. But lest I get heady on its meaning for me alone- in German the very same flower is called "Erica!".
In walking down this never ending 10km to the next town, I walked with another French Canadian from Quebec City named Marise. I certainly seem to be destined to speaking French, but have to say Im loving it and can actually carry on a conversation now - half intelligently at least. I have to say everyone has been very generous with their acceptance of my stumbling.
Back on the trail we eventually arrived at El Acebo and found all sorts of friends from the trail drying out and enjoying delicious warm soup, hot chocolate and chocolate muffins. Good for the endorphines!
Back out in the rain it was to be a long 9km to Molinaseca with a steep descent. I had no idea how challenging it was going to be. I was "skating" on the mud, then walking down riverbeds, fording streams over logs and watching my steps on the rock beds. Except it was the most amazing and pleasurable 9 very difficult km. I followed a group of Soith Koreans I have seen off and on since St Jean. A couple, though mainly the husband sang arias for the full 9 km. An extraordinary experience. Beautiful this Camino. And the scenery was stunning.
Molinaseca is a beautiful little town and Im in a friendly little inn with a heated radiator. It continues to rain but I am very happy.
Now to dinner. Heather
The pathway down the mountain was very rugged and slick.
Today I started early in the dark and the rain. It was to be a long day climbing to
Scotland where there was lots of Heather blooming. But then I suppose I was in a very
different place within myself this time.
Then the path narrowed and we walked
There was no weefee available last night, so was not able to make a post. I did not say anything on my last post about my feet, and feel I should because we walked 27km that day and then another 27km today. I must say they have been real troopers, though it is very different from the beginning. We have many conversations now and I consult my feet on these long treks. On that former long day, I did stop several times to air,Examine, massage and occasionally cream my feet. Also, for the last 4km I changed into my sandals which made them very happy.
Many times I have been reminded by a favourite miller childhood story called "Theres no such thing as a dragon". Billy tells his mother there is a dragon in his room and mother tells him there's no such thing as a dragon. Several times she repeats this as the dragon continues to grow until it takes up the whole house. The last scene shows a small dragon on mothers lap and she says she doesn't mind dragons this size and she couldn't understand why he had to grow so big. In Billys childhood wisdom, he says he thinks the dragon just wants to be noticed.
A wonderful metaphor for many things, and certainly for my feet. It's a relationship like any other- we all want to be noticed and respected, and now I respect the deeper wisdom of my feet
even when my will/mind wants to take over.
Astorga was a beautiful town and I left later than usual yesterday morning. The moon was just a sliver. It was cool as the sun rose to reveal a tree lined street splendid in fall colours of orange and gold. Our path was beside a path where many teams were out for their morning run.
I stopped a couple of times to have a tortilla and tea, then a bocodilla and coke for lunch. Marie caught up with me a couple of times, but I was having a very pensive day. I was reflecting on why I was doing this Camino.
One reason was that I wanted to trust the wisdom of my body and to be guided from that place. And my feet certainly have been helping me along with that one. In fact at one point I stopped and put on my sandals- we were feeling very free and the sun was glorious.
But there is also a reality in my life that I have had a lot of difficulty in honouring myself and claiming my own authority in my life. It has led me to seek out many things and become a bit of an eternal student. But of course those achievements are in large part external; as well this lack of belief has kept me from putting myself out in the world- almost a fear of being judged.
As I was walking along the trail, the valley opened up to reveal a large swath of purple heather in bloom. As I walked along more and more became apparent. It was almost overwhelming, but I was transfixed by the magnitude of it all. It extended as far as I could see and beyond. The scene said to me, there is heather in all it's/your glory. Not in a narcissistic way, but in a graphic honouring. And I felt I took it in in a new way in every cell of my body. It was an amazing recognition for me that brought me to tears. It also struck me that I did not have that same recognition when Margo and I were in the highlands of Scotland but then I was in a very different place this time.
Then the path narrowed and we walked along a protected path beside a wire fence. All over the fence were crosses made out sticks and decorated with mosses, leaves, heather and all sorts of creative presentations. The walkway must of extended for 1-2 km. And the fence was covered with these little altars. An honouring of human connections- of tributes, prayers, love, loss, hope. This Camino is much more than a religious journey even in a Holy Year. It is about soul. Of what is truly important in peoples lives. And because it is a long journey involving each persons body, this path is about embodying soul. It Gives me a great deal of hope for our world and our humanity. I stopped to place a few of my own crosses for friends and loved ones.
Today was a very rich journey and U appreciated the solitude.
A special dish of this area is called Cocido Maragato - a topsy turvy dinner with the meat course first followed by vegetables then soup. Encouraged by my Brazilian friends I decided to try it. The meat was all sorts of pork- feet, ear, knuckle, hock- all well cooked and very tasty- but enough to feed an army. I ate my fill then took the rest to some south Korean friends who delighted in it. The vegetables were cabbage and chick peas and the soup like a pale chicken noodle soup. I'm happy I tried it, but once is enough.
I had dinner with a woman I had crossed paths with many times, but she spoke french in such a quiet voice I didn't have a lot of confidence in communicating with her. I learned she is SwissAllemagn and has just retired as a social worker. We got on famously and had lots of laughs together.
I started out early this morning in the dark and in the rain. It would be another long day- 27km and rising to 1500m then back down to a steep descent to Molinaseca. As I started to climb I realized I needed to tale off my inner jacket so I decided to stop at the next appropriate stop. I could see a tree up ahead then saw something that made me laugh. Tied to the tree was a swing- with with red seat. I took off my pack and looked closer at the seat and it said,"play!". I got on the swing and laughed and laughed. I pumped so I went higher and higher - and looked up at the sky through the branches. It was the best! I felt it was a gift just for me - it couldn't be more appropriate. My grandchildren would have loved to see their Nana swinging... I thought of that many times today and laughed. It was great. This is some Camino.
With the rain getting harder I eagerly arrived at the first town Foncebaden only to discover they only had tostadas (toast) to eat. Still it was warm and the tea tasted good. After this I arrived at the Cruz de Ferro - a place where pilgrims leave stones they have brought from home and also messages, altars, and many rejected boots. It apparently was something the celts used to do- place stones as a way of appeasing the mountain gods and to ask for safe passage through the mountains. Astrid- my Germanic Swiss friend from the night before - and I walked to the Cruz de Ferro, then along down the mountain. The path was slick and rocky. Astrid chose the road solely. I wove on and out of the trail, but after afancy ballet move
chose the roadway for some distance. It was hard on the body and pretty uninteresting with the exception of there being once again Heather plants, bit this time big bushes 2-3 ft tall and covered with new growth and many ready to bloom. It continued to warm my heart. But lest I get heady on its meaning for me alone- in German the very same flower is called "Erica!".
In walking down this never ending 10km to the next town, I walked with another French Canadian from Quebec City named Marise. I certainly seem to be destined to speaking French, but have to say Im loving it and can actually carry on a conversation now - half intelligently at least. I have to say everyone has been very generous with their acceptance of my stumbling.
Back on the trail we eventually arrived at El Acebo and found all sorts of friends from the trail drying out and enjoying delicious warm soup, hot chocolate and chocolate muffins. Good for the endorphines!
Back out in the rain it was to be a long 9km to Molinaseca with a steep descent. I had no idea how challenging it was going to be. I was "skating" on the mud, then walking down riverbeds, fording streams over logs and watching my steps on the rock beds. Except it was the most amazing and pleasurable 9 very difficult km. I followed a group of Soith Koreans I have seen off and on since St Jean. A couple, though mainly the husband sang arias for the full 9 km. An extraordinary experience. Beautiful this Camino. And the scenery was stunning.
Molinaseca is a beautiful little town and Im in a friendly little inn with a heated radiator. It continues to rain but I am very happy.
Now to dinner. Heather
The pathway down the mountain was very rugged and slick.
Today I started early in the dark and the rain. It was to be a long day climbing to
Scotland where there was lots of Heather blooming. But then I suppose I was in a very
different place within myself this time.
Then the path narrowed and we walked
Monday, October 4, 2010
Astorga
Dear Family and Friends
Wee fee not so good in Villadangos del Paramo, and it was cold and raining. Had a snooze in the afternoon. A strange occurance but quite delightful.
Left Leon at the crack of dawn. Some bikers and I tried to find the markings in the dark when a sergeant major came walking by like the pied piper. Soon there was a ragtag group heading out of town with yours truly bringing up the rear. I was quite grateful since it was a dark and dingy route and quite complicated. Soon the rains started to make an appearance so all the pilgrims were stopping to don their rain gear.
As we descended the roadway onto a nice path a group of 4 frenchmen I had spoken to earlier broke into tenor music. I'd swear they were the group Simon (American Idol) put together to rival/replace (?) the 3 tenors. They were fantastic. I had learned earlier that morning that a good friend I had been with for a week in Hawaii had just died, so I was walking with a heavy heart. Walking a souless route along a high traffic route, their singing brought a sense of soul to my heart, honouring Kathreen's spirit.
A little later I met up with Igor and Victor- the young Spanish men who were now trying to reach Santiago by the 13th. Igor, a professional photographer on contract with Lonely Planet is going to Barcelona to study photojournalism and Victor is studying languages at university.
We walked together for a bit then parted. We would connect a few more times before saying a final goodbye. At the top of a hill a car pulled out andstopped. As I walked by he handed me handsfull of ripe prune plums for me and to share with other pilgrims. Then not too far ahead a man set up a stand greeting pilgrims offering fresh fruit, sello (stamp for our credential which has to be stamped at each stop to be presented at Santiago for our Compostella. ).
It is just one if the many delightful surprises on the Camino.
Arrival at villadangos del Paramos was otherwise uneventful.
I met there 2 German men who started cycling in Munich Sept 1. Cycling 80-100km/day. They found this day very gruelling with the huge headwind and rain. At dinner a Frenchman (a country doctor) from Brittany joined us who speaks in Celtic language. Today I met up with him and he spoke in this language which did sound very unique. Not quite french, but familiar all
the same.
Once again I left in the dark, finding it difficult to find the markings leading me out of town. I was thankful I had a little light to alert motorists as I crossed the bridge on the roadway. Eventually I found the path. There was a sliver of a moon and soon the light began to bring relief to the landscape.
At the first town I came upon a woman/fellow peregrino. I spike to her and discovered she was French Canadian from Montreal. She had started in La Puy in May, then travelled elsewhere when it got hot. However, she had had problems with her ankles being unstable and had just bought new boots in Leon and was having problems with one of her ankles. At one point we stopped and I taped the foam padding I had received for my blisters from the hospital on Santa Dominga de
la Cazada. She called me her angel and I was pleased to be able to help out someone else since the universe had been so good to me. I learned that she is a writer of childrens books and also works as an art therapist in mental health in Montreal. Such a small world.
We walked together until Hospital de Orbigo where Linda would take the bus to Astorga where she could get some medical help before entering into mountainous terrain.
When we stopped for refreshment we met Marie, from Aix-le-province in southern France.
We walked together for a bit,separated,then joined up again later and spent a pleasant afternoon together speaking French,laughing and enjoying each others company.
About 6km from Astorga we came upon a stand where a Spanish fellow named David had all manner of goods- coffee/tea, fruit, baked goods, fruit juices etc. Free for the taking with only a small box marked "donations ". He also spoke french, German, English - all the languages that were represented by all who gathered there. He had hearts painted all over his stand and apparently has a website. When he heard that I was from Vamcouver he said je had been there and referenced Eckhart Tolle. He was amazed when I told him I often see Eckhart walking his dog. A German woman there had never heard of him so we gave her the names of his books. Such a small world. I love it. Such is life on the Camino.
Today was a long 27 km. I walked through the woods and a very challenging rocky road, but far better than walking along the road.
Tomorrow- Rabanal del Camino. Signing off from Beautiful Astorga. Heather
Wee fee not so good in Villadangos del Paramo, and it was cold and raining. Had a snooze in the afternoon. A strange occurance but quite delightful.
Left Leon at the crack of dawn. Some bikers and I tried to find the markings in the dark when a sergeant major came walking by like the pied piper. Soon there was a ragtag group heading out of town with yours truly bringing up the rear. I was quite grateful since it was a dark and dingy route and quite complicated. Soon the rains started to make an appearance so all the pilgrims were stopping to don their rain gear.
As we descended the roadway onto a nice path a group of 4 frenchmen I had spoken to earlier broke into tenor music. I'd swear they were the group Simon (American Idol) put together to rival/replace (?) the 3 tenors. They were fantastic. I had learned earlier that morning that a good friend I had been with for a week in Hawaii had just died, so I was walking with a heavy heart. Walking a souless route along a high traffic route, their singing brought a sense of soul to my heart, honouring Kathreen's spirit.
A little later I met up with Igor and Victor- the young Spanish men who were now trying to reach Santiago by the 13th. Igor, a professional photographer on contract with Lonely Planet is going to Barcelona to study photojournalism and Victor is studying languages at university.
We walked together for a bit then parted. We would connect a few more times before saying a final goodbye. At the top of a hill a car pulled out andstopped. As I walked by he handed me handsfull of ripe prune plums for me and to share with other pilgrims. Then not too far ahead a man set up a stand greeting pilgrims offering fresh fruit, sello (stamp for our credential which has to be stamped at each stop to be presented at Santiago for our Compostella. ).
It is just one if the many delightful surprises on the Camino.
Arrival at villadangos del Paramos was otherwise uneventful.
I met there 2 German men who started cycling in Munich Sept 1. Cycling 80-100km/day. They found this day very gruelling with the huge headwind and rain. At dinner a Frenchman (a country doctor) from Brittany joined us who speaks in Celtic language. Today I met up with him and he spoke in this language which did sound very unique. Not quite french, but familiar all
the same.
Once again I left in the dark, finding it difficult to find the markings leading me out of town. I was thankful I had a little light to alert motorists as I crossed the bridge on the roadway. Eventually I found the path. There was a sliver of a moon and soon the light began to bring relief to the landscape.
At the first town I came upon a woman/fellow peregrino. I spike to her and discovered she was French Canadian from Montreal. She had started in La Puy in May, then travelled elsewhere when it got hot. However, she had had problems with her ankles being unstable and had just bought new boots in Leon and was having problems with one of her ankles. At one point we stopped and I taped the foam padding I had received for my blisters from the hospital on Santa Dominga de
la Cazada. She called me her angel and I was pleased to be able to help out someone else since the universe had been so good to me. I learned that she is a writer of childrens books and also works as an art therapist in mental health in Montreal. Such a small world.
We walked together until Hospital de Orbigo where Linda would take the bus to Astorga where she could get some medical help before entering into mountainous terrain.
When we stopped for refreshment we met Marie, from Aix-le-province in southern France.
We walked together for a bit,separated,then joined up again later and spent a pleasant afternoon together speaking French,laughing and enjoying each others company.
About 6km from Astorga we came upon a stand where a Spanish fellow named David had all manner of goods- coffee/tea, fruit, baked goods, fruit juices etc. Free for the taking with only a small box marked "donations ". He also spoke french, German, English - all the languages that were represented by all who gathered there. He had hearts painted all over his stand and apparently has a website. When he heard that I was from Vamcouver he said je had been there and referenced Eckhart Tolle. He was amazed when I told him I often see Eckhart walking his dog. A German woman there had never heard of him so we gave her the names of his books. Such a small world. I love it. Such is life on the Camino.
Today was a long 27 km. I walked through the woods and a very challenging rocky road, but far better than walking along the road.
Tomorrow- Rabanal del Camino. Signing off from Beautiful Astorga. Heather
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