Astorga

Dear Family and Friends
Wee fee not so good in Villadangos del Paramo, and it was cold and raining. Had a snooze in the afternoon. A strange occurance but quite delightful.
Left Leon at the crack of dawn. Some bikers and I tried to find the markings in the dark when a sergeant major came walking by like the pied piper. Soon there was a ragtag group heading out of town with yours truly bringing up the rear. I was quite grateful since it was a dark and dingy route and quite complicated. Soon the rains started to make an appearance so all the pilgrims were stopping to don their rain gear.
As we descended the roadway onto a nice path a group of 4 frenchmen I had spoken to earlier broke into tenor music. I'd swear they were the group Simon (American Idol) put together to rival/replace (?) the 3 tenors. They were fantastic. I had learned earlier that morning that a good friend I had been with for a week in Hawaii had just died, so I was walking with a heavy heart. Walking a souless route along a high traffic route, their singing brought a sense of soul to my heart, honouring Kathreen's spirit.
A little later I met up with Igor and Victor- the young Spanish men who were now trying to reach Santiago by the 13th. Igor, a professional photographer on contract with Lonely Planet is going to Barcelona to study photojournalism and Victor is studying languages at university.
We walked together for a bit then parted. We would connect a few more times before saying a final goodbye. At the top of a hill a car pulled out andstopped. As I walked by he handed me handsfull of ripe prune plums for me and to share with other pilgrims. Then not too far ahead a man set up a stand greeting pilgrims offering fresh fruit, sello (stamp for our credential which has to be stamped at each stop to be presented at Santiago for our Compostella. ).
It is just one if the many delightful surprises on the Camino.
Arrival at villadangos del Paramos was otherwise uneventful.
I met there 2 German men who started cycling in Munich Sept 1. Cycling 80-100km/day. They found this day very gruelling with the huge headwind and rain. At dinner a Frenchman (a country doctor) from Brittany joined us who speaks in Celtic language. Today I met up with him and he spoke in this language which did sound very unique. Not quite french, but familiar all
the same.
Once again I left in the dark, finding it difficult to find the markings leading me out of town. I was thankful I had a little light to alert motorists as I crossed the bridge on the roadway. Eventually I found the path. There was a sliver of a moon and soon the light began to bring relief to the landscape.
At the first town I came upon a woman/fellow peregrino. I spike to her and discovered she was French Canadian from Montreal. She had started in La Puy in May, then travelled elsewhere when it got hot. However, she had had problems with her ankles being unstable and had just bought new boots in Leon and was having problems with one of her ankles. At one point we stopped and I taped the foam padding I had received for my blisters from the hospital on Santa Dominga de
la Cazada. She called me her angel and I was pleased to be able to help out someone else since the universe had been so good to me. I learned that she is a writer of childrens books and also works as an art therapist in mental health in Montreal. Such a small world.
We walked together until Hospital de Orbigo where Linda would take the bus to Astorga where she could get some medical help before entering into mountainous terrain.
When we stopped for refreshment we met Marie, from Aix-le-province in southern France.
We walked together for a bit,separated,then joined up again later and spent a pleasant afternoon together speaking French,laughing and enjoying each others company.
About 6km from Astorga we came upon a stand where a Spanish fellow named David had all manner of goods- coffee/tea, fruit, baked goods, fruit juices etc. Free for the taking with only a small box marked "donations ". He also spoke french, German, English - all the languages that were represented by all who gathered there. He had hearts painted all over his stand and apparently has a website. When he heard that I was from Vamcouver he said je had been there and referenced Eckhart Tolle. He was amazed when I told him I often see Eckhart walking his dog. A German woman there had never heard of him so we gave her the names of his books. Such a small world. I love it. Such is life on the Camino.
Today was a long 27 km. I walked through the woods and a very challenging rocky road, but far better than walking along the road.
Tomorrow- Rabanal del Camino. Signing off from Beautiful Astorga. Heather