Leon

Dear Friends and Family
The signal is weak here so I'll hope for the best. There was no wifi nor computer at my hostal last night so I was unable to make a post.
After I wrote my blog at Sahagun I took a shower and discovered I had left a couple of critical items in Calzadilla de la Cueza. I recalled checking the room and even looking under the bed but I recalled my ( one and only)bra and socks were not quite dry so I put them on the radiator. Being the se colour as the radiator I did not see them. I tried to not beat myself up and set off to replace my items. When you travel light, there's not much leeway for losses.
Although Sahagun is a bigger town, it is very dates and perhaps a bit depressed. I gathered the little Spanish I knew and asked where I could buy some socks. I was directed to a little shop about the size of our kitchen that contained goods from clothing appliances hardware - a good old fashioned country store. They happened to have one pair- my size- merino hiking socks which are awesome with my sandals. As Marg and I discovered in Russia, pantomime goes a long way in a foreign country. Indeed they not only had just one bra, I got led behind the counter and into the office where I discovered a perfect fit and pretty too:). Also dries faster.
although the place seemed very clean, I was a little disconcerted to have found a few bugs that suspiciously looked like bedbugs. I am learning a deeper compassion for myself and thereby for others, but I have not yet learned to extend that to creepy crawlies while walking across a foreign country. I did not give them a Buddhists welcome Im afraid. I slapped on some teatree oil before bed hoping that might ward them off. Happily I set off early the next morning free of any intruders.
I indulged in a chocolate croissant and hot chocolate at the bakery at the end of my street
before heading off into the dark. It was a very peaceful morning as I made my way once again guided by the moon. The wind was blowing and it was quite brisk. Only one other pilgrim was ahead of me. These solitary mornings are a real treasure and I find lines of poetry coming to me as I walk. I stopped for some tortilla and tea and a visit with friends then proceeded along the path lined all 14km more with sycamor trees. Their leaves look like maple leaves bit the bark on the trunks peel off. They stand like protective sentries all along the path.
There is an amazing amount of bridge construction underway- very generative activity. I counted at least 4 new bridges being built. One caused the path to detour and stones painted yellow guided the way along with arrows created with yellow painted stones. It felt like very attentive detail.
I came across a small vinyard where they were harvesting the grapes by hand. I asked to take a picture then they gave me a bunch of grapes to eat as I walked. They were small but very sweet.
The pathway came close to the roadway and had a very suburban feel. I put on Oliver Schroer on my iPod. A number of years ago Oliver walked the Camino and carried his violin/fiddle and recording equipment and composed music on the way, playing in town squares, churches, whatever was a available. It is entitled Camino, and also includes sounds of the camino like feet walking, cow bells, and church bells. I used to listen to in in the months leading up to my walk as I imagined myself there/here. Not very many months after he walked the camino, he was diagnosed with leukemia and later died. It is very soulful music and as I walked my thoughts took me to my mother for whom I dedicated this blog. Mother daughter relationships are very complicated, often punctuated with conflict. But the music wound itself around both of us and held us in my heart as a mother does to comfort a child - only we were both mother and child. Because in the end, all we want is to be seen and loved for who we are. That is the gift dementia has given to my mother. Women (and men) of that generation have untold griefs hidden so deep inside, often it is the next generation who is able to heal the wounds through an honouring of their own feelings. It was a very beautiful walk into El Burgo Ranero.
Jenny and Marcie,my young American friends and their Spanish friends Igor and Victor from Burgos were buying food for paella, and they invited me for lunch/ around 3 at the albergue which was across the street from my hostal. Igor was the chef in charge. I hadn't realiZed paella was made similar to risotto. Six of us sat down to a delicious and filling
meal. One of the things a pilgrim misses by staying Ina hostal is the sense of community around shared living space, so I appreciated the opportunity to share in the activity. Several friends I had made arrived while we ate so it was good to catch up with them. Since I took no part in the preparation I was happy to do cleanup duty. I was told ar the grocery store that the volunteer at the albergue was Canadian and didn't speak any Spanish. He is from Edmonton and walked from st Jean, stopped to volunteer for 2 weeks then will continue to santiago.
When I arrived back to my hostal there was a big group of pilgrims many I have come to know. We sat around having beer or wine, then all gathered for dinner. (I only had an appie being full on paella) There were two from Ireland, two from New Zealand, two from Brazil, one from Germany, one from Australia- a priest and myself. It was extraordinary and delightful.
Today I headed for Mansilla de las Mulas. It was much as yesterday was - dark,moon
beautiful sunrise, sycamor tree lined
pathway for 13km then another 7 or8. I have found that the best antidote to a painful back from carrying a pack ia yoga. Asanas relieve the stress incredibly, particularly sun salutation. I also greeted the moon with my own half moon. Just before I arrived in Mansilla, there was a beautiful grasses park where I took off my shoes and used the grass as my yoga mat. After my asanas shavasana in the sun looking at the clouds go by was pure heaven.
I also had an honest discussion with my feet. I have been taking turns with my boots since once the rains come, I will not be able to wear my sandals ( which are a dream to walk in).
At the 13km mark I tried something new when I changed into my boots.
I used cream for massage, then put two liner socks and tied my boots on the 3rd set of holes from the toe. ( a little tip from my new Zealand friend) Bonanza! My feet are happy as clams. I might not have figures it out had I not lefty socks behind. So in this little discussion with mes piedos, we planned on walking another 7 or 8 km (if I changed back into my sandals). then taking the bus into Leon from Puente de Velerente.
I decided I wanted to make it to Santiago by the 16th so I have some time there as well as
Madrid- perhaps even a day trip to finisterre.
However, since this is Sabado (Saturday), the last bus to Leon was in less than30 min. So I made another executive decision to skip ( all of 20 min by bus) and a whole day of walking to get me back on schedule.
Now, in the lexicon of the camino this is very contraversial. There are purists that walk only, carry their packs, and stay in aubergues except for the odd treat.
Others opt to have their bags carried, stay in hostals, but never take the bus.
Others opt to bypass the boring bits by bus and think nothing of it. When I took the bus to Santa Domingo because of blisters, one of my camino friends asked me why I took the bus, then proceeded to ask me why Didnt I just take the bus to Santiago?
But I have spent my life following all " the rules". I realiZe I did not provide enough time for a leisurely walk along with blister rest days, so have opted to make the most of what is more exciting to me, and that doesn't include walking into a big city. I figure one of the benefits of getting older is to choose what suits me best and thatbis what I have done. Feels quite good I have to say.
It was fun to wander aimlessly in Leon. I went to see the Cathedral- the windows are beautiful, though I think Chartres is still more beautiful. There was a wedding going on even as tourists looked around the church. Then I discovered a craft market very similar to the one we saw with the MacDonalds in Pamplona several years ago. There were even a group of pipers
and drums- very different looking pipes. I took a couple of videos Rob for you to see.
Tomorrow I head for Villadangos del Paramo. That's the gleanings of the Camino with 319km to go. Heather
So that about