Dear FAmily and Friends
a no blister day! Yeah!
I started out this morning a little after 7 in the dark and a half moon to guide me. It was a bit cool but not like it has been. I had some difficulty finding the trail but an early cyclist pointed the way. I was feeling very spiffy in my fresh air dried clothes. Once again it was a beautiful morning, rolling hills, rich vegetation and a beautiful sunrise. At one point I stopped at a picnic ground and had some dark chocolate in a piece of yesterdays French bread. A tasty little treat that kept me going till I found a bar open in a village. Two young Spanish men walked by,each carrying large Spanish flags hung on their walking sticks. They were very colourful. I had met them last night with Marcie and Jenny, my young friends from Bellingham with whom I had walked for the better part of the first week. It was like old home week seeing them again. They had stayed in Burgos 2 days to celebrate Marcy's birthday which made us back in step again.
I was happy about my decision to stop at Calzadilla de la Cueza. It was a long woay to terradillos de los templarios and I learned from a young German woman I met enroute that they filled the private auberue there early and a woman she met had to walk back to the next town to get a place to stay.
Last night at dinner an Hungarian woman named Judith joined Sheila, Janet (NZ) and I. She has done the Camino 3 times and is working for 4 months at various aubergues. In our discussion around issues that come up on the camino, she said that each person receives issues thatcthey need to deal with. The shoes are not the issue with blisters or foot problems. The issues start from the ground up and manifest in the body. By the end of the camino, mind and body come together. To me she made a lot of sense and I began to see my blisters on a different light. Actually, I recall Nicole telling me something similar in the early days of my foot issues. It certainly is a time for me to walk my walk.
We passed a small vinyard today where there were many colourful scarecrows in the field. My camera wasn't powerful enough to capture them but I stopped to talk with him and took his picture. I'm proud to say I got on quite well for a bit before I had to say no hablo espagnol.
Something might be sinking in this old head.
Sheila and I met up for lunch and met a couple from Brazil. She has walked the Vamino several times and her husband twice. He too prefers to stay in hostals because he loses/leaves too many things in the aubergues. He told his wife it was cheaper for them to stay in hostals rather than have to replace all the things he has left behind.
The walk from our lunch stop to Sahagun was quite an easy one. Sahagun is quite a big town as seen from a distance. It struck me as I was walking toward town, here I am, 64 years old walking with a pack on my back, with everything I need....walking across Spain. It hit me in a strange new way and I felt very free. It is nothing I have ever done before. I had never travelled away on my own when I was young, like many do- backpacking Europe or Asia. I suppose when I was young I did not appreciate the breadth of choices available to me at that stage of my life. So having that thought as I entered this town was quite wonderful.
I am not sure where I will be tomorrow night. Either el Burgo Ranero or Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. Until then Buen Camino. Heather
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Calzadilla de la Cueza
Dear Family and Friends
We passed the half way mark today! Now that is progress!
I stopped at Calzadilla de la Cueze because I am trying to listen to my body. I could have carried on another 7.8 km to Terradillos de los Templarios, but my feet really do react negatively when I push. They are doing pretty well, but I am not blister free and I learned my lesson last time. It was very hard for me to tell myself it was OK to stay. I´m not sure what it is that pushes me. I do have a schedule that lays out the distances and days, and this does add on another day before I arrive in Leon- Sunday rather than saturday. But I do know this Camino is not a race, and it is providing me with challenges I need to attend to.
It was helpful yesterday being with a group of women who are also moving more slowly along the camino. Four of us went for dinner last night. Sheila, my Irish friend, Laura, a young woman from Toronto, and Janet, a woman from NewZealand. They are all in their 50´s. Janet is interesting in that she is a single mom and has raised her children on her own. They are all adults now. She is a nurse working on North Island. Her daugher and boyfriend, after travelling 2 years decided to come home and rent a place for 6 months for their summer to give themselves time to decide what to do. Janet decided that was her opportunity to go on an adventure. She has allowed her daughter and boyfriend to rent her place, she took out a loan and is travelling for 6 months- 2 of them for the Camino. She is a delight.
Laura has been sick with a cold and has been taking it very slowly also. She has come realizing she was not really prepared to do the Camino, so is taking it slow. Sheila has an organized trip- with bookings for the entire trip and her bags are transported to each stop. She had problems with her foot before she left, so decided it best not to try to carry a pack. THis is her 50th birthday present.
I also met two delightful Swedish women this morning. They have a trolly rigged with a harness which they share pulling. It carries both of their packs. They are staying in aubergues, though she confessed that she is taking sleeping pills to help her sleep. They are also doing a blog, so we exchanged addresses.
They were very interested in talking about books of interest. My friends from last night arrived, and I walked with them a bit, but I hope I meet up with the Swedish women again. They are around my age.
They told me about an experience they had Ermita de San Nicolas. I had heard about this place from an Austrian man in Hontanas. He had experienced it a couple of years ago and wanted to take his new wife of 3 months. When I arrived, I was told they do not accept pilgrims before 4pm and she was very discouraging of me waiting. It is a small 13Century chapel which also houses cooking facilites without electricity, and 10 aubergue beds. They cook together, have dinner by candle light, then have a ritual. Anita (the Swedish woman) said they read a poem by Pablo Neruda, did a ritual, then washed their feet. Like the Austrian man, she said it was the highlight of her trip so far. I did meet the Austrian couple the next day, and he too was rejected on the day I tried to stay there. He said they were not very welcoming, although 2 people who experienced it this year have had nothing but good things to say about it.
The path today got a bit tedious towards the end. It was a stretch of 17.5km without much relief. There was a stand after about 10km - in the middle of no where- a trailer with fruit, sweets, coffee, tea, drinks etc. and tables and chairs. It was a delightful break. The last 7.5 km was much harder than the first 10. It got hot. The path was a stone path through fields, some ploughed, some with the crops cut, and various fields of old sunflowers, heads bowed to the east peppered here and there. The fields go as far as you can see. But unlike the prairies, they are often rolling hills.
Calzadilla de la Cueza is very small. The place I am staying is the Camino Real. Ísn´t there a movie by that name? It is quite a hive of activity here, it is the only place in town to eat.. I haven´t seen anyone yet whom I know, but I do know Sheila is staying here.
The sequence of events- for me at least, is to arrive and shower, attend to feet, then wash clothes and wrap them in the towel so they can dry in time for morning. I had something to eat when I arrived to give me time to decide whether or not I would stay. It is beautiful and sunny, so I have washed almost all the clothes I have with me, save for something to wear while the others dry. Reports say that rain is on its way, so make hay while the sun shines. I will need to wear my boots once it rains, so that will be interesting to see how they treat my feet.
These places I have visited on the Meseta all hang out their sheets outside to dry. They have such a fresh smell, it is delightful.
Once again, the moon hung in the sky to past noon. Not sure why that happens, I have not noticed it before, but then, I don´t usually spend my time walking looking at the sky. It is close to a half moon now. Fascinating being so tuned into the passing phases of the moon and nature. The mornings start out very cool and soon warm up. NOt too much of a wind today, but got quite hot.
Tomorrow I expect to be in Sahagun, some 21km away.
It is a bigger town, so hopefully, will continue this then. Bye for now. Heather
We passed the half way mark today! Now that is progress!
I stopped at Calzadilla de la Cueze because I am trying to listen to my body. I could have carried on another 7.8 km to Terradillos de los Templarios, but my feet really do react negatively when I push. They are doing pretty well, but I am not blister free and I learned my lesson last time. It was very hard for me to tell myself it was OK to stay. I´m not sure what it is that pushes me. I do have a schedule that lays out the distances and days, and this does add on another day before I arrive in Leon- Sunday rather than saturday. But I do know this Camino is not a race, and it is providing me with challenges I need to attend to.
It was helpful yesterday being with a group of women who are also moving more slowly along the camino. Four of us went for dinner last night. Sheila, my Irish friend, Laura, a young woman from Toronto, and Janet, a woman from NewZealand. They are all in their 50´s. Janet is interesting in that she is a single mom and has raised her children on her own. They are all adults now. She is a nurse working on North Island. Her daugher and boyfriend, after travelling 2 years decided to come home and rent a place for 6 months for their summer to give themselves time to decide what to do. Janet decided that was her opportunity to go on an adventure. She has allowed her daughter and boyfriend to rent her place, she took out a loan and is travelling for 6 months- 2 of them for the Camino. She is a delight.
Laura has been sick with a cold and has been taking it very slowly also. She has come realizing she was not really prepared to do the Camino, so is taking it slow. Sheila has an organized trip- with bookings for the entire trip and her bags are transported to each stop. She had problems with her foot before she left, so decided it best not to try to carry a pack. THis is her 50th birthday present.
I also met two delightful Swedish women this morning. They have a trolly rigged with a harness which they share pulling. It carries both of their packs. They are staying in aubergues, though she confessed that she is taking sleeping pills to help her sleep. They are also doing a blog, so we exchanged addresses.
They were very interested in talking about books of interest. My friends from last night arrived, and I walked with them a bit, but I hope I meet up with the Swedish women again. They are around my age.
They told me about an experience they had Ermita de San Nicolas. I had heard about this place from an Austrian man in Hontanas. He had experienced it a couple of years ago and wanted to take his new wife of 3 months. When I arrived, I was told they do not accept pilgrims before 4pm and she was very discouraging of me waiting. It is a small 13Century chapel which also houses cooking facilites without electricity, and 10 aubergue beds. They cook together, have dinner by candle light, then have a ritual. Anita (the Swedish woman) said they read a poem by Pablo Neruda, did a ritual, then washed their feet. Like the Austrian man, she said it was the highlight of her trip so far. I did meet the Austrian couple the next day, and he too was rejected on the day I tried to stay there. He said they were not very welcoming, although 2 people who experienced it this year have had nothing but good things to say about it.
The path today got a bit tedious towards the end. It was a stretch of 17.5km without much relief. There was a stand after about 10km - in the middle of no where- a trailer with fruit, sweets, coffee, tea, drinks etc. and tables and chairs. It was a delightful break. The last 7.5 km was much harder than the first 10. It got hot. The path was a stone path through fields, some ploughed, some with the crops cut, and various fields of old sunflowers, heads bowed to the east peppered here and there. The fields go as far as you can see. But unlike the prairies, they are often rolling hills.
Calzadilla de la Cueza is very small. The place I am staying is the Camino Real. Ísn´t there a movie by that name? It is quite a hive of activity here, it is the only place in town to eat.. I haven´t seen anyone yet whom I know, but I do know Sheila is staying here.
The sequence of events- for me at least, is to arrive and shower, attend to feet, then wash clothes and wrap them in the towel so they can dry in time for morning. I had something to eat when I arrived to give me time to decide whether or not I would stay. It is beautiful and sunny, so I have washed almost all the clothes I have with me, save for something to wear while the others dry. Reports say that rain is on its way, so make hay while the sun shines. I will need to wear my boots once it rains, so that will be interesting to see how they treat my feet.
These places I have visited on the Meseta all hang out their sheets outside to dry. They have such a fresh smell, it is delightful.
Once again, the moon hung in the sky to past noon. Not sure why that happens, I have not noticed it before, but then, I don´t usually spend my time walking looking at the sky. It is close to a half moon now. Fascinating being so tuned into the passing phases of the moon and nature. The mornings start out very cool and soon warm up. NOt too much of a wind today, but got quite hot.
Tomorrow I expect to be in Sahagun, some 21km away.
It is a bigger town, so hopefully, will continue this then. Bye for now. Heather
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Carrion de los Condes
Dear Family and Friends,
I am pretty sick with how much of my message yesterday was lost. WeeFee (Wifi) seems to be very iffy here and although I can keep typing, the info is not saved. Obviously I cannot always rely on this blog to record all the stories, so will try to keep this short and get the information down in my journal.
I stayed in Fromista longer than normal today, deciding to have breakfast before I left. It was a beautiful day and Sheila (my Irish friend) and I set out about 8:30. The moon was high in the sky even though the sun was shining and it lasted till well past noon. There was an alternate route alongside a river bank and I encouraged Sheila to come along with me. Obviously not many pilgrims took advantage of this alternate route which was off the main road because it was quite overgrown and many burr bushes and long grasses had to be trampled down. I was wearing my sandals because my feet are much happier in them and by the time we reached the next town my feet were quite wet. But my pinkie was very happy. The pharmacia in Fromista was amazingly well stocked. He suggested a little finger bandage that was lined in silicone. It was wonderful, though by the time we arrived at our destination, there is no way around it, your feet are very tired.
The route we chose was otherwise very peaceful and was lightened also by many birds singing. It opened up to a better road, but we decided to follow the main camino route through to Carrion de lost Condes. It followed the roadway, though it was not a very busy road - no major highway. But to look at it, it looked like a camino throughway - with markers as far as you could see. Still, the scenery was very peaceful with rolling hills of ploughed fields.
We stopped in Villalcazar de Sirga for some lunch. We stopped at a bench at the edge of a park along the walkway and Sheila went to get a sandwich and some drinks for each of us. I had bought a boccadilla, and was sitting eating it while I aired my feet and rested them on my walking sticks. A Japanese woman came up to me and asked me if she could massage my feet? Do you really think I would say no? I agreed and she put her things on another park bench and got out her cream. It was heaven. She lives in Hiroshima, and learned to do 4 kinds of massage since her last Camino walk two years ago between Roncevalles and Santiago. This time she left from Puy France, beginning near the end of July. She returned to Hiroshima in September I think when she went to honour Hiroshima, then walked once more, and returned again to Japan in October for a tea ceremony. She would accept nothing for her service. I bowed to her and honoured her.
I did pass her as I walked into Carrion, and offered to give her a massage. I thought she agreed, but once we entered town we stopped under a tree and she was about to massage me again. She refused a massage, so this seems to be an important offering she is making. You can never tell me that angels don´t exist. My feet were dancing.
Otherwise it was a quiet day on the Camino today. I´m not sure where I will arrive tomorrow. I was going to stay in Terradillos de los Templarios, but I couldn´t get a booking. I may stay in a private auberge, but it is 26km so I will have to see how my feet are feeling.
So until next time. Buen Camino. Heather
I am pretty sick with how much of my message yesterday was lost. WeeFee (Wifi) seems to be very iffy here and although I can keep typing, the info is not saved. Obviously I cannot always rely on this blog to record all the stories, so will try to keep this short and get the information down in my journal.
I stayed in Fromista longer than normal today, deciding to have breakfast before I left. It was a beautiful day and Sheila (my Irish friend) and I set out about 8:30. The moon was high in the sky even though the sun was shining and it lasted till well past noon. There was an alternate route alongside a river bank and I encouraged Sheila to come along with me. Obviously not many pilgrims took advantage of this alternate route which was off the main road because it was quite overgrown and many burr bushes and long grasses had to be trampled down. I was wearing my sandals because my feet are much happier in them and by the time we reached the next town my feet were quite wet. But my pinkie was very happy. The pharmacia in Fromista was amazingly well stocked. He suggested a little finger bandage that was lined in silicone. It was wonderful, though by the time we arrived at our destination, there is no way around it, your feet are very tired.
The route we chose was otherwise very peaceful and was lightened also by many birds singing. It opened up to a better road, but we decided to follow the main camino route through to Carrion de lost Condes. It followed the roadway, though it was not a very busy road - no major highway. But to look at it, it looked like a camino throughway - with markers as far as you could see. Still, the scenery was very peaceful with rolling hills of ploughed fields.
We stopped in Villalcazar de Sirga for some lunch. We stopped at a bench at the edge of a park along the walkway and Sheila went to get a sandwich and some drinks for each of us. I had bought a boccadilla, and was sitting eating it while I aired my feet and rested them on my walking sticks. A Japanese woman came up to me and asked me if she could massage my feet? Do you really think I would say no? I agreed and she put her things on another park bench and got out her cream. It was heaven. She lives in Hiroshima, and learned to do 4 kinds of massage since her last Camino walk two years ago between Roncevalles and Santiago. This time she left from Puy France, beginning near the end of July. She returned to Hiroshima in September I think when she went to honour Hiroshima, then walked once more, and returned again to Japan in October for a tea ceremony. She would accept nothing for her service. I bowed to her and honoured her.
I did pass her as I walked into Carrion, and offered to give her a massage. I thought she agreed, but once we entered town we stopped under a tree and she was about to massage me again. She refused a massage, so this seems to be an important offering she is making. You can never tell me that angels don´t exist. My feet were dancing.
Otherwise it was a quiet day on the Camino today. I´m not sure where I will arrive tomorrow. I was going to stay in Terradillos de los Templarios, but I couldn´t get a booking. I may stay in a private auberge, but it is 26km so I will have to see how my feet are feeling.
So until next time. Buen Camino. Heather
Monday, September 27, 2010
Fromista cont'd
The Internet went down and I lost some of my post so I'll try to pick it up again.
The Damish fellow I met in Ages and the two of them had just attended a baptism at an adjacent church. There were lots of families about and they threw candies in wrappers into the street and over at the perigrino side too.
I also met a woman named Irma from Namimbia in South Africa. She had walked from la Puy in France which is where I wanted to walk from until I learned that it was 800km from st Jean Pied de Port. Irma said that there was a mass at 6:30 the morning they left where all the pilgrims attended and picked a name out of a bin that contained names of people who were incapable of taking the journey. She said it was incredibly moving and I felt goosebumps as she told the story. I also met two youn French Canadian women tonight who walked also from La Puy, France.
I had a fabulous meal in Honturos
The Damish fellow I met in Ages and the two of them had just attended a baptism at an adjacent church. There were lots of families about and they threw candies in wrappers into the street and over at the perigrino side too.
I also met a woman named Irma from Namimbia in South Africa. She had walked from la Puy in France which is where I wanted to walk from until I learned that it was 800km from st Jean Pied de Port. Irma said that there was a mass at 6:30 the morning they left where all the pilgrims attended and picked a name out of a bin that contained names of people who were incapable of taking the journey. She said it was incredibly moving and I felt goosebumps as she told the story. I also met two youn French Canadian women tonight who walked also from La Puy, France.
I had a fabulous meal in Honturos
Fromista
Dear Followers of the Camino
I thank you for your comments and emails. Sometimes I do feel like Im on the other side of the world but the journey continues to be filled with inspiration and wonderful people.
When I left Burgos I was well ahead because the hotel being near the university was a good 4km past the centre of town. At the azofra I went to have a cup of tea and soon the maitre D I had had the day before for dinner presented a plate of freshly baked croissants. Were they good (one only :). The walk went very fast and I arrived at Hornillos del Camino by noon. I had walked all day in my sandals and my feet felt very good. I was feeling very invigorated. I also had met another French Canadian couple from Quebec and Suzie and I had a similar pace. We spoke mainly in French which I was enjoying very much. We also met up with GG ( Gibeth and Gerard at hornillos where we had all stopped for lunch. The hostal I was to stay in was across the street. I was trying to decide whether to stay or not. I sensed that rain was coming and tried on my boots to see how they felt. They felt good. So I decided to go on. It was another 10 km. As I looked for the owner I saw a German fellow I had met earlier that day. He seemed to be hanging about and I asked him how he was. He said he had a bad foot and wanted to get a room at the Hostal but it was all full. I looked at him and said it was his lucky day. Amidst some confusion by the shop owner who was tending the hostal for the owner made the arrangements and told "Nick" he was going to be Mr Miller for that night. :).
I headed off into the Meseta just as it was starting to rain. I wondered if I was crazy. And of course I was. It would just take another dose of blisters to let it sink in really well. It actually rained quite hard. For a long while there was no one else on the path. Eventually Ramona, the Germanic Swiss woman I had met the first day at St Jean Pied la port caught up with me and we walked together to Hontanas. I got a lovely little room on the top floor. I asked for a cup of tea and the Senora brought it to me in my room. When I went outside there were many I had met previously - the Norwegian man who reminded me of my brother, and a Danish man I had met in
I thank you for your comments and emails. Sometimes I do feel like Im on the other side of the world but the journey continues to be filled with inspiration and wonderful people.
When I left Burgos I was well ahead because the hotel being near the university was a good 4km past the centre of town. At the azofra I went to have a cup of tea and soon the maitre D I had had the day before for dinner presented a plate of freshly baked croissants. Were they good (one only :). The walk went very fast and I arrived at Hornillos del Camino by noon. I had walked all day in my sandals and my feet felt very good. I was feeling very invigorated. I also had met another French Canadian couple from Quebec and Suzie and I had a similar pace. We spoke mainly in French which I was enjoying very much. We also met up with GG ( Gibeth and Gerard at hornillos where we had all stopped for lunch. The hostal I was to stay in was across the street. I was trying to decide whether to stay or not. I sensed that rain was coming and tried on my boots to see how they felt. They felt good. So I decided to go on. It was another 10 km. As I looked for the owner I saw a German fellow I had met earlier that day. He seemed to be hanging about and I asked him how he was. He said he had a bad foot and wanted to get a room at the Hostal but it was all full. I looked at him and said it was his lucky day. Amidst some confusion by the shop owner who was tending the hostal for the owner made the arrangements and told "Nick" he was going to be Mr Miller for that night. :).
I headed off into the Meseta just as it was starting to rain. I wondered if I was crazy. And of course I was. It would just take another dose of blisters to let it sink in really well. It actually rained quite hard. For a long while there was no one else on the path. Eventually Ramona, the Germanic Swiss woman I had met the first day at St Jean Pied la port caught up with me and we walked together to Hontanas. I got a lovely little room on the top floor. I asked for a cup of tea and the Senora brought it to me in my room. When I went outside there were many I had met previously - the Norwegian man who reminded me of my brother, and a Danish man I had met in
Friday, September 24, 2010
Burgos
Dear Family and Friends,
I will try this one more time. I arrived into Burgos early afternoon. The entrance to the city is through a very boring industrial area, then through the streets to the center of town where the Cathedral is located. But I will retrace my steps from Belorado to Ages.
When I awakened in Belorado, I could smell fire and wondered if a building was on fire. The inn keeper informed me that that was from the bakery where they make their daily pan (bread.) So no wonder it is so good, they bake it in wood ovens. I left the inn at 7 am in the dark. I found it difficult to find the symbols that guide us along the camino, so I went into a hotel to ask. There were many pilgrims there, including a German woman named Suzanne I had met the previous day. I decided to have some breakfast with her first then head off. We had to go along the highway for a while before turning off onto the trail, which held closely to a busy highway. As we moved from the roadway to the trail, we met Erica, the Swiss woman who has walked from Switzerland. Her image will forever be etched in my mind as she radiates enthusiasm. Because she is Germanic Swiss and Suzanne is German, the two of them began speaking rapidly in German. A Frenchman was walking along at the same time, so we talked a bit, and then they all left me in their dust. I was still nursing my blisters, so I was happy to walk at my own pace.
THe fields were rolling hills of cut hay and a farmer was ploughing a very large field adjacent to the path. It struck me that this journey is allowing old fields within me to be ploughed under preparing for the planting of new seeds in another season.
As I walked along a young tall blonde man came up beside me and spoke English. He was from Norway and just graduated from highschool. He is walking to Santiago, then heading to Paris, and then to India in an effort to discover the direction he wants to take his life. We made an easy connection and soon got into a very philosophical conversation. Such wisdom in so young a person. I have no doubt he will discover his path succussfully.
Part of our journey took us on a path through the cut hay field. It created a beautiful sight seeing all these people walking across golden fields. I have met people from Israel, Ireland, France, Italy, Britain, South Africa, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, New Zealand, US, and Canada. / I might have missed a few. Everyone greets each other by Ola, then Buen Camino. It does not matter what language is spoken, those greetings are exchanged automatically, usually with a smile. It's quite amazing.
When I stopped for a tea at a little cafe, I met a couple from New Brunswick/ from Acadia and we walked together for a while. They have both done the CAmino before, and the husband another time before that from France / over 60 days.
The rolling fields shifted into a steep climb on a very rocky path. Once again the path was lined with swaths of heather, some coming into bloom and others dying out from its blooming period. Ferns also abounded. There was a feel of out for a sunday stroll as we entered a pine forest which looked like it had been planted possibly 10 years before. I stopped for a little picnic with a boccodillo / sandwich made from a loaf of french bread and often ham and /or cheese. I have promised my feet I will air them every 2 hours and they love me for it.
The closed pine path opened up into a road way which was very difficult to walk. It was helped along by walking with the Acadian couple and the wife of the other french couple from James Bay / Amoss/ She came up to me and said she had been wanting to talk with someone from Vancouver. She said that she felt very proud to be a canadian during the olympics. It brought Canada together and she could not say enough good things about how it unfolded. It was nice to hear.
The day grated as we walked a good 12km through this roadway. I had to move on another 2/3 km. to Ages, so by the time I arrived, I was pretty exhausted and other parts of my feet were making noises.
After my disaster with the computer in the aubergue, I headed to bed around 8 pm and felt better int he morning.
Today, I began again in the dark but this time lit by a full moon. Somehow it felt comforting. I could see several groups of people walking ahead on the roadway. Today would be almost all on paved road, which isn't quite so exciting and it is very hard on the body. I met another Norwegian who looked uncannily like my brother, beard and all. Since he was 52, his was still red as was Robert's at that age. His age caught me unawares, as it reminded me of the age when my father died. I guess having time to reflect brings to mind some of these things hidden in the recesses of our inner life.
At another stop, I stopped to get some breakfast. I love their tortillas / it seems to be an egg/almost omelette, although it seems to have some levening, and it is filled with cooked potato. Sometimes it comes between a piece of french bread. I met a Spanish couple who were cycling the Camino to Burgos. He was quite keen to speak English and we got into a good conversation for almost an hour. They have visited Canada before going eastward and next time want to head west. They were delightful.
The walk into Burgos was very tedious on a fairly main road and then through industrial area. The city is quite big// 170,000, so it was a long way.
I visited the Cathedral which is a stunning baroque structure with amazing art work. The organist was playing while visitors explored the many chapels and museum pieces. After picking up some supplies, I headed to the hotel Jim had discovered ont he internet. It was in the University area which was about an hour out of town, so I took a bus there, my feet not being too happy at having to walk any more. I still have some blister challenges, but nothing like the pinkies, so very managable. I managed to make it under the wire for the lunch menu, which is a 3 course menue from 2to 4, which means you don´t need to wait until 8 or 8:30 to eat. The dining room was quite exclusive and expensive, and although pilgrims are not plentiful around here, I asked the waiter if they had a menu peregrino. I had a delicious 3 course dinner including wine for 13Euros. Bonanza!
So now, its off to Hornillos del Camino tomorrow, and a new adventure in exploring the Meseta.
Good night all. Buen Camino (to me, and all my fellow pilgrims :), . Heather
I met a Spanish couple
I will try this one more time. I arrived into Burgos early afternoon. The entrance to the city is through a very boring industrial area, then through the streets to the center of town where the Cathedral is located. But I will retrace my steps from Belorado to Ages.
When I awakened in Belorado, I could smell fire and wondered if a building was on fire. The inn keeper informed me that that was from the bakery where they make their daily pan (bread.) So no wonder it is so good, they bake it in wood ovens. I left the inn at 7 am in the dark. I found it difficult to find the symbols that guide us along the camino, so I went into a hotel to ask. There were many pilgrims there, including a German woman named Suzanne I had met the previous day. I decided to have some breakfast with her first then head off. We had to go along the highway for a while before turning off onto the trail, which held closely to a busy highway. As we moved from the roadway to the trail, we met Erica, the Swiss woman who has walked from Switzerland. Her image will forever be etched in my mind as she radiates enthusiasm. Because she is Germanic Swiss and Suzanne is German, the two of them began speaking rapidly in German. A Frenchman was walking along at the same time, so we talked a bit, and then they all left me in their dust. I was still nursing my blisters, so I was happy to walk at my own pace.
THe fields were rolling hills of cut hay and a farmer was ploughing a very large field adjacent to the path. It struck me that this journey is allowing old fields within me to be ploughed under preparing for the planting of new seeds in another season.
As I walked along a young tall blonde man came up beside me and spoke English. He was from Norway and just graduated from highschool. He is walking to Santiago, then heading to Paris, and then to India in an effort to discover the direction he wants to take his life. We made an easy connection and soon got into a very philosophical conversation. Such wisdom in so young a person. I have no doubt he will discover his path succussfully.
Part of our journey took us on a path through the cut hay field. It created a beautiful sight seeing all these people walking across golden fields. I have met people from Israel, Ireland, France, Italy, Britain, South Africa, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, New Zealand, US, and Canada. / I might have missed a few. Everyone greets each other by Ola, then Buen Camino. It does not matter what language is spoken, those greetings are exchanged automatically, usually with a smile. It's quite amazing.
When I stopped for a tea at a little cafe, I met a couple from New Brunswick/ from Acadia and we walked together for a while. They have both done the CAmino before, and the husband another time before that from France / over 60 days.
The rolling fields shifted into a steep climb on a very rocky path. Once again the path was lined with swaths of heather, some coming into bloom and others dying out from its blooming period. Ferns also abounded. There was a feel of out for a sunday stroll as we entered a pine forest which looked like it had been planted possibly 10 years before. I stopped for a little picnic with a boccodillo / sandwich made from a loaf of french bread and often ham and /or cheese. I have promised my feet I will air them every 2 hours and they love me for it.
The closed pine path opened up into a road way which was very difficult to walk. It was helped along by walking with the Acadian couple and the wife of the other french couple from James Bay / Amoss/ She came up to me and said she had been wanting to talk with someone from Vancouver. She said that she felt very proud to be a canadian during the olympics. It brought Canada together and she could not say enough good things about how it unfolded. It was nice to hear.
The day grated as we walked a good 12km through this roadway. I had to move on another 2/3 km. to Ages, so by the time I arrived, I was pretty exhausted and other parts of my feet were making noises.
After my disaster with the computer in the aubergue, I headed to bed around 8 pm and felt better int he morning.
Today, I began again in the dark but this time lit by a full moon. Somehow it felt comforting. I could see several groups of people walking ahead on the roadway. Today would be almost all on paved road, which isn't quite so exciting and it is very hard on the body. I met another Norwegian who looked uncannily like my brother, beard and all. Since he was 52, his was still red as was Robert's at that age. His age caught me unawares, as it reminded me of the age when my father died. I guess having time to reflect brings to mind some of these things hidden in the recesses of our inner life.
At another stop, I stopped to get some breakfast. I love their tortillas / it seems to be an egg/almost omelette, although it seems to have some levening, and it is filled with cooked potato. Sometimes it comes between a piece of french bread. I met a Spanish couple who were cycling the Camino to Burgos. He was quite keen to speak English and we got into a good conversation for almost an hour. They have visited Canada before going eastward and next time want to head west. They were delightful.
The walk into Burgos was very tedious on a fairly main road and then through industrial area. The city is quite big// 170,000, so it was a long way.
I visited the Cathedral which is a stunning baroque structure with amazing art work. The organist was playing while visitors explored the many chapels and museum pieces. After picking up some supplies, I headed to the hotel Jim had discovered ont he internet. It was in the University area which was about an hour out of town, so I took a bus there, my feet not being too happy at having to walk any more. I still have some blister challenges, but nothing like the pinkies, so very managable. I managed to make it under the wire for the lunch menu, which is a 3 course menue from 2to 4, which means you don´t need to wait until 8 or 8:30 to eat. The dining room was quite exclusive and expensive, and although pilgrims are not plentiful around here, I asked the waiter if they had a menu peregrino. I had a delicious 3 course dinner including wine for 13Euros. Bonanza!
So now, its off to Hornillos del Camino tomorrow, and a new adventure in exploring the Meseta.
Good night all. Buen Camino (to me, and all my fellow pilgrims :), . Heather
I met a Spanish couple
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Ages
Dear Friends and Family,
I have just written a very long description of today and have lost it all.I do not have the energy to repeat it.
It has been a trying day, very long and rocky road through some beautiful forest and then through some very boring roads - 16km.Feet are quasi, but will be OK.
Tomorrow I will be in the big town of Burgos- 170,000, then head off into the Meseta, rather like the prairies from what I can gather, but I will know better once I am there.
Turning in early. Heather
I have just written a very long description of today and have lost it all.I do not have the energy to repeat it.
It has been a trying day, very long and rocky road through some beautiful forest and then through some very boring roads - 16km.Feet are quasi, but will be OK.
Tomorrow I will be in the big town of Burgos- 170,000, then head off into the Meseta, rather like the prairies from what I can gather, but I will know better once I am there.
Turning in early. Heather
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
On the Road Again - Belorado
Dear Family and Friends,
I set off this morning in the dark with the stars twinkling. I love the early mornings- it is so fresh and new and anything is possible. There was one other person ahead of me, so I kept him in my scope as I crossed the bridge to the path to Belorado. My feet felt quite good and I felt a lightness to my step. I missed my friends I had walked with for several days, but I realized that the group mind was operating causing me to often walk faster than my pace. Also, there was a manner that decisions - like where to stay, were often affected by the group. I loved the freedom of finding my own pace, stopping when I wanted or needed, and had no obligation to anyone- not that I really did, but the power of the group is very strong.
The first person I met was a young blonde man from Norway. He had just graduated from highschool and was walking the camino to help him decide which direction he wanted to take his life from many options open to him. It is interesting how some people are very easy to connect with. I think of how dogs, very quickly either gravitate to others, or there is a negative vibe that causes them to snarl or run the other way. Well this young man and I quickly got into some very deep and philosophical topics. It seems he is an artist, and I think would like to pursue that option, but understands the difficulties of pursuing that avenue. He is heading for Santiago, then Paris, then India - many months of journeying. What a life that young man is going to have.
My next walking partner was a lovely New Zealand woman whom I had met several days before. She has had many challenges physically and walks quite slowly, but I had wanted to visit with her and was happy to go at a slow pace because of my own foot issues. She left Christ Church, where she lives just 2 days after the earthquake. I think it was difficult for her because of leaving her family behind to deal with all the aftershocks and damage, but she did with encouragement from her family. The common comment of many women my age walking this path, when I ask what their family thinks of their journey, without exception, they all say their family thinks they are crazy, or don´t understand, but that that is nothing new....... It was also interesting getting her perspective of her role in life. Often discussions move to how to be a parent to adult children. She told me her vision of herself was not a breast on legs and she did not want to become a wrinkled breast on legs in her old age. Rather, she felt she modelled how she wants to live her life. My laughter at her image danced over the countryside. She broke me up.
The countryside today was sweeping mowed wheat fields - golden rolling hills as far as the eye could see. Very beautiful. Our path followed the middle of such fields. It was very peaceful. Many of the towns are closed tighter than a drum - no food to be had. However, in the last town before Belorado, a lovely Spanish woman had an icecream stand. The chocolate almond icream stick touched the spot! The last 6 km was tough. THe sun was beating down and we walked on a gravel path alongside the highway. I tried to tone out the traffic with my ipòd which helped a great deal.
I have nothing but good things to say about the Spanish people. THey have gone out of their way to be helpful. I find that if I try to speak Spanish, they warm to you immediately. I am staying in a delightful little inn with beautiful flowers outside my window. THe Senora who owns it gave me directions for the post office. I shipped my sleeping bag, journal and postcards to Santiago - almost 1 kg! I might even fly tomorrow, I´ll be so light. I decided that even if I choose to stay in an Aubergue or have no choice, I still have my silk liner and if necessary, I can wear my warm clothes to bed to keep warm. Private Aubergues often have blankets. It is amazing how your pack can feel so light in the morning and so very heavy at the end of the day. Still, I can feel the weight in my heels, so I think I´m better off with the lighter pack. The clerk in the post office was incredibly helpful and even gave me 2 postcards on the Camino as a gift. Or if you ask for directions, people will walk with you to make sure you know the way to go.
While in Belorado after visiting the postoffice, I stopped at a cafe to get some lunch. Another woman with a pack came and sat a couple of tables over from me. We were the only ones there. I spoke to her and she responded in English. She is Swiss, from the German side, so English is easier for her rather than French. She has walked from Switzerland! 350km in Switzerland. Over 1000 in France and 800 in Spain. She walks 30km per day and is carrying 10kg. She says she is a farmer and is used to walking a lot. Amazing stories here.
I also met a young french man in Santo Domingo de la Calzada who was travelling on a bicycle. He has been travelling for a month - from France, is going to Santiago, then to Africa - for 4 or 5 years. He is part of an organization who offers help and he will be doing that in many places around Africa. His bicycle weighs 80kg. He has a computer, tenting equipment, a shower and whatever he needs to be self sufficient for that period of time. It doesn´t diminish what I am doing, but it certainly puts it into perspective.
Tomorrow I head for San Juan de Ortega - 23km from here. Today was 24km. In two days I will be in the big town of Burgos, the beginning of the Meseta which sounds like the prairies. Many don´t like it because of its unchanging and flat terrain, but I am quite looking forward to it. I have been energized by my 2 days of rest so am eager for the adventure to continue.
I want to say thank you for those of you supporting me along the way. I have only recently discovered the comments.....Working on my iphone has been limiting,so have not managed to get into the full layout of how this blogspot works, but I do appreciate your emails and comments. Today I am in an internet cafe with Spanish music blaring. I do hope this makes sense.
Until next time. Adios. Heather
I set off this morning in the dark with the stars twinkling. I love the early mornings- it is so fresh and new and anything is possible. There was one other person ahead of me, so I kept him in my scope as I crossed the bridge to the path to Belorado. My feet felt quite good and I felt a lightness to my step. I missed my friends I had walked with for several days, but I realized that the group mind was operating causing me to often walk faster than my pace. Also, there was a manner that decisions - like where to stay, were often affected by the group. I loved the freedom of finding my own pace, stopping when I wanted or needed, and had no obligation to anyone- not that I really did, but the power of the group is very strong.
The first person I met was a young blonde man from Norway. He had just graduated from highschool and was walking the camino to help him decide which direction he wanted to take his life from many options open to him. It is interesting how some people are very easy to connect with. I think of how dogs, very quickly either gravitate to others, or there is a negative vibe that causes them to snarl or run the other way. Well this young man and I quickly got into some very deep and philosophical topics. It seems he is an artist, and I think would like to pursue that option, but understands the difficulties of pursuing that avenue. He is heading for Santiago, then Paris, then India - many months of journeying. What a life that young man is going to have.
My next walking partner was a lovely New Zealand woman whom I had met several days before. She has had many challenges physically and walks quite slowly, but I had wanted to visit with her and was happy to go at a slow pace because of my own foot issues. She left Christ Church, where she lives just 2 days after the earthquake. I think it was difficult for her because of leaving her family behind to deal with all the aftershocks and damage, but she did with encouragement from her family. The common comment of many women my age walking this path, when I ask what their family thinks of their journey, without exception, they all say their family thinks they are crazy, or don´t understand, but that that is nothing new....... It was also interesting getting her perspective of her role in life. Often discussions move to how to be a parent to adult children. She told me her vision of herself was not a breast on legs and she did not want to become a wrinkled breast on legs in her old age. Rather, she felt she modelled how she wants to live her life. My laughter at her image danced over the countryside. She broke me up.
The countryside today was sweeping mowed wheat fields - golden rolling hills as far as the eye could see. Very beautiful. Our path followed the middle of such fields. It was very peaceful. Many of the towns are closed tighter than a drum - no food to be had. However, in the last town before Belorado, a lovely Spanish woman had an icecream stand. The chocolate almond icream stick touched the spot! The last 6 km was tough. THe sun was beating down and we walked on a gravel path alongside the highway. I tried to tone out the traffic with my ipòd which helped a great deal.
I have nothing but good things to say about the Spanish people. THey have gone out of their way to be helpful. I find that if I try to speak Spanish, they warm to you immediately. I am staying in a delightful little inn with beautiful flowers outside my window. THe Senora who owns it gave me directions for the post office. I shipped my sleeping bag, journal and postcards to Santiago - almost 1 kg! I might even fly tomorrow, I´ll be so light. I decided that even if I choose to stay in an Aubergue or have no choice, I still have my silk liner and if necessary, I can wear my warm clothes to bed to keep warm. Private Aubergues often have blankets. It is amazing how your pack can feel so light in the morning and so very heavy at the end of the day. Still, I can feel the weight in my heels, so I think I´m better off with the lighter pack. The clerk in the post office was incredibly helpful and even gave me 2 postcards on the Camino as a gift. Or if you ask for directions, people will walk with you to make sure you know the way to go.
While in Belorado after visiting the postoffice, I stopped at a cafe to get some lunch. Another woman with a pack came and sat a couple of tables over from me. We were the only ones there. I spoke to her and she responded in English. She is Swiss, from the German side, so English is easier for her rather than French. She has walked from Switzerland! 350km in Switzerland. Over 1000 in France and 800 in Spain. She walks 30km per day and is carrying 10kg. She says she is a farmer and is used to walking a lot. Amazing stories here.
I also met a young french man in Santo Domingo de la Calzada who was travelling on a bicycle. He has been travelling for a month - from France, is going to Santiago, then to Africa - for 4 or 5 years. He is part of an organization who offers help and he will be doing that in many places around Africa. His bicycle weighs 80kg. He has a computer, tenting equipment, a shower and whatever he needs to be self sufficient for that period of time. It doesn´t diminish what I am doing, but it certainly puts it into perspective.
Tomorrow I head for San Juan de Ortega - 23km from here. Today was 24km. In two days I will be in the big town of Burgos, the beginning of the Meseta which sounds like the prairies. Many don´t like it because of its unchanging and flat terrain, but I am quite looking forward to it. I have been energized by my 2 days of rest so am eager for the adventure to continue.
I want to say thank you for those of you supporting me along the way. I have only recently discovered the comments.....Working on my iphone has been limiting,so have not managed to get into the full layout of how this blogspot works, but I do appreciate your emails and comments. Today I am in an internet cafe with Spanish music blaring. I do hope this makes sense.
Until next time. Adios. Heather
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Apologies for all the typos
At times my time is limited and I do not have the luxury of time for previewing my page. On my iPhone it is too easy to make typos.
Heather
Heather
Santo Domingo de la Conzada
Dear Family and friends.
The past two days have been quite low for me. The blisters on my little toes have been more than I bargained for. Still they say you get what you need on the Camino, so there is much to learn. I did bus to Santo Domingo to keep pace but also I was not in a particularly nice place to stay. On the bus I could see that the valley opened quite broadly with ploughed fields and vinyards. It became quite sunny and warm. Attempts to find a room were not successful. They said the festvities went on for a week which meant finding a room was difficult so I settled for a pensione. The basic level wad through the floor, but as I am inclined to do I felt I could do no better. Later in the day I discovered I was wrong on two counts. I went back and negotiated my departure - all in Spanish I might add- with mote than a little help from my iPhone. A lovely Swedish couple I had met along the way told me of a very nice hostal ( more like a little inn) they were in. I waited a good two hours, but they indeed did have a room for a very descent price. As it turned out it held much promise.
This morning I realizes that I should not walk again today. The baby toes are most unhappy and my heel has been throbbing. The owner of the hostal took me to the emergency to have a nurse check my toes. The bandages available do not accommodate the awkwardness of the 360 degree blistered surface. Second skin does but they don't sell it here. The male nurse who spoke a little English gave me som nice coushy dressing to last me a few days.
I return to the hospital this afternoon to see a doctor to rule out any problem with my throbbing heels. The medical system here handles all this at no charge. The owner of the hostal has a very big heart. He speaks even less English than I do Spanish , but there is a lightness to it which is quite fun.
I met up with Katie yesterday and we had dinner together (coincidentally in the restaurant owned by the owner of where I am staying. Although not plagued with blisters she is finding
this journey far more gruelling than she had expected.
Santo Domingo is an interesting little town. The story goes that so
e pilgrims along with their 18 year old son stopped at Santo Domingo on their way to Santiago.
A young woman in the inn fell in live with the lad but when the sentiments were not reciprocated she put a silver cup in his bags then called the magistrate telling he had stolen it. He was tried and hanged. When the parents went to see their son he spoke saying Santo Domingo de la Conzada had saved his life. The magistrate did not believe and said their son was as alive as the roasted cock and chicken he was having for dinner. At that moment the cock crowed and the chicken jumped off the plate and began to sing.
Now this place is called : Santo Domingo de la Cazada where the hen crows after being roasted.
I went into the church today to see the chicken and rooster which have been kept (changed regularly). It is a lovely Baroque church but the rooster and chicken alluded me. Finally I discovered the very fancy cage they are kept in in the church after hearing the rooster crow. The saying goes that if you hear the cock crow you will reach Santiago. Before I left the cathedral he had crowed at least 5 times.
The story was recorded in Avignon as early as the 12th century. For me it tells me to have faith.
I have also made an executive decision to mail my sleeping bag to Santiago to lighten my load. I missed the post today by 3 minutes
but I have decided I will stay in small hotels along the way. I greatly admire those who can stay in alberques. Lisa (BSR)I believe you did, but after trying it for a better part of a week I just can't work that hard at night after working my body so hard during the day. Perhaps it is still my perfectionism that creates the inner conflict. Others I meet have no problem with it. But at this point that feels clearer to me.
Tomorrow Belorado. Heather
The past two days have been quite low for me. The blisters on my little toes have been more than I bargained for. Still they say you get what you need on the Camino, so there is much to learn. I did bus to Santo Domingo to keep pace but also I was not in a particularly nice place to stay. On the bus I could see that the valley opened quite broadly with ploughed fields and vinyards. It became quite sunny and warm. Attempts to find a room were not successful. They said the festvities went on for a week which meant finding a room was difficult so I settled for a pensione. The basic level wad through the floor, but as I am inclined to do I felt I could do no better. Later in the day I discovered I was wrong on two counts. I went back and negotiated my departure - all in Spanish I might add- with mote than a little help from my iPhone. A lovely Swedish couple I had met along the way told me of a very nice hostal ( more like a little inn) they were in. I waited a good two hours, but they indeed did have a room for a very descent price. As it turned out it held much promise.
This morning I realizes that I should not walk again today. The baby toes are most unhappy and my heel has been throbbing. The owner of the hostal took me to the emergency to have a nurse check my toes. The bandages available do not accommodate the awkwardness of the 360 degree blistered surface. Second skin does but they don't sell it here. The male nurse who spoke a little English gave me som nice coushy dressing to last me a few days.
I return to the hospital this afternoon to see a doctor to rule out any problem with my throbbing heels. The medical system here handles all this at no charge. The owner of the hostal has a very big heart. He speaks even less English than I do Spanish , but there is a lightness to it which is quite fun.
I met up with Katie yesterday and we had dinner together (coincidentally in the restaurant owned by the owner of where I am staying. Although not plagued with blisters she is finding
this journey far more gruelling than she had expected.
Santo Domingo is an interesting little town. The story goes that so
e pilgrims along with their 18 year old son stopped at Santo Domingo on their way to Santiago.
A young woman in the inn fell in live with the lad but when the sentiments were not reciprocated she put a silver cup in his bags then called the magistrate telling he had stolen it. He was tried and hanged. When the parents went to see their son he spoke saying Santo Domingo de la Conzada had saved his life. The magistrate did not believe and said their son was as alive as the roasted cock and chicken he was having for dinner. At that moment the cock crowed and the chicken jumped off the plate and began to sing.
Now this place is called : Santo Domingo de la Cazada where the hen crows after being roasted.
I went into the church today to see the chicken and rooster which have been kept (changed regularly). It is a lovely Baroque church but the rooster and chicken alluded me. Finally I discovered the very fancy cage they are kept in in the church after hearing the rooster crow. The saying goes that if you hear the cock crow you will reach Santiago. Before I left the cathedral he had crowed at least 5 times.
The story was recorded in Avignon as early as the 12th century. For me it tells me to have faith.
I have also made an executive decision to mail my sleeping bag to Santiago to lighten my load. I missed the post today by 3 minutes
but I have decided I will stay in small hotels along the way. I greatly admire those who can stay in alberques. Lisa (BSR)I believe you did, but after trying it for a better part of a week I just can't work that hard at night after working my body so hard during the day. Perhaps it is still my perfectionism that creates the inner conflict. Others I meet have no problem with it. But at this point that feels clearer to me.
Tomorrow Belorado. Heather
Monday, September 20, 2010
Logrono and Najera contd
I cannot seem to find my way back into a draft so that is why I keep continuing with a new blog. Mike if there's a way idont know about please let me know.
The German woman who iscompleting her camino also is struggling with blisters.
I have decided to take today off and will busit to the next town. I am very tired. Yesterday my feet felt like o was carrying cement blocks. So in listening to my bodythat is what i feel I need to do.
The countryside here is breathtaking. We walk right through vinyards then see whole vistas of fields and vinyards and streams. Sheila my Irish friend heard on her descent into a beautiful valley a booming Spanish voice singing Danny Boy. She was in tears with the sheer beauty and coincidence. Stories like this abound here.
Nick was telling me that a few days ago because it was the anniversary of his fathers death at 65 years of age. This year Nick is 65 so it was a thoughtful time. His father smoked lucky strikes and his brother wrote a poem to his father called lucky strike. On that day Nick saw 2empty packages of lucky strikes on the path - never seen before nor since.
When I arrived into Logrono, which is quite a big town, it was CRAZY - like happens in Vancouver when the Canucks wins a big game well perhaps it's not quite Spanish style....
Wine and beer was flowing everywhere and all that goes with lots of consumption of alcohol. The noise was deafening. Finding a path through the crowds was a challenge.
One Spanish man who went out of his way to help me find my hotel explained thatthis was a celebration of the first wine harvest. And did it flow.
I have lost track of Katie. She broke her camera and also wanted to send off some things to lighten her load, so motored on when I wanted to stop for a cup of tea. That is how things go here and Im learning to flow with it noticing my patterns of response.
Along the way I met two dilightful french men from Tulouse. One had arthritic knees and hobbled side to side as he walked. But could he move! I couldn't keep up to him.
Two little interesting tidbits: one day when everyone was desperately wanting something to eat there was a sign promising various foods. At the top of the hill before leaving town, there was a coke vending machine behind a locked iron fence but sufficiently accessible to obtain a drink. The other was a vending machine that offered as an option the coquille st Jacques (shell of st James) that is the symbol of the camino pilgrim.
So I am off now to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Heather
ingo
ke
ug
The German woman who iscompleting her camino also is struggling with blisters.
I have decided to take today off and will busit to the next town. I am very tired. Yesterday my feet felt like o was carrying cement blocks. So in listening to my bodythat is what i feel I need to do.
The countryside here is breathtaking. We walk right through vinyards then see whole vistas of fields and vinyards and streams. Sheila my Irish friend heard on her descent into a beautiful valley a booming Spanish voice singing Danny Boy. She was in tears with the sheer beauty and coincidence. Stories like this abound here.
Nick was telling me that a few days ago because it was the anniversary of his fathers death at 65 years of age. This year Nick is 65 so it was a thoughtful time. His father smoked lucky strikes and his brother wrote a poem to his father called lucky strike. On that day Nick saw 2empty packages of lucky strikes on the path - never seen before nor since.
When I arrived into Logrono, which is quite a big town, it was CRAZY - like happens in Vancouver when the Canucks wins a big game well perhaps it's not quite Spanish style....
Wine and beer was flowing everywhere and all that goes with lots of consumption of alcohol. The noise was deafening. Finding a path through the crowds was a challenge.
One Spanish man who went out of his way to help me find my hotel explained thatthis was a celebration of the first wine harvest. And did it flow.
I have lost track of Katie. She broke her camera and also wanted to send off some things to lighten her load, so motored on when I wanted to stop for a cup of tea. That is how things go here and Im learning to flow with it noticing my patterns of response.
Along the way I met two dilightful french men from Tulouse. One had arthritic knees and hobbled side to side as he walked. But could he move! I couldn't keep up to him.
Two little interesting tidbits: one day when everyone was desperately wanting something to eat there was a sign promising various foods. At the top of the hill before leaving town, there was a coke vending machine behind a locked iron fence but sufficiently accessible to obtain a drink. The other was a vending machine that offered as an option the coquille st Jacques (shell of st James) that is the symbol of the camino pilgrim.
So I am off now to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Heather
ingo
ke
ug
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Logrono & Najera
Dear Family and Friends
I am in Najera after two very long days of walking -27 & 29 km. But my pinky toes have started a rebellion. My right felt good but my left one was complaining quite a bit. I was walking with Sheila, an Irish woman and Nick, An American whom I met the second day. They both walk very fast, so I slowed my pace and mainly walked on my own. About 5 km from Najera, deep in vinyard land of Rioja district I put on my sandals to walk which helped considerably. One of the problems with my boots which are gortex is in this dry dusty climate the pores get clogged and they don't breathe. My feet get very hot and yesterday was very warm. Also, in my first albergue experience in Pamplona I lost a pair of socks, which is near a disaster with footwear being the currency of the camino. I did go to an outdoors store to buy a pair of hiking socks. Yesterday was the first day I wore them so possibly they don't breathe so well as the others. I still have one pair of my original so I suppose I will rely on them more.
When this kind of problem happens you begin to find others in similar straights. We spoke with a Swedish fellow last night while having a beer waiting for Spanish magic dinner hour of 8pm. He has been plagued by blisters and has decided to ignore them and walk today. Then last night a young German woman from Munich who did half tha Camino last year and is completing
I am in Najera after two very long days of walking -27 & 29 km. But my pinky toes have started a rebellion. My right felt good but my left one was complaining quite a bit. I was walking with Sheila, an Irish woman and Nick, An American whom I met the second day. They both walk very fast, so I slowed my pace and mainly walked on my own. About 5 km from Najera, deep in vinyard land of Rioja district I put on my sandals to walk which helped considerably. One of the problems with my boots which are gortex is in this dry dusty climate the pores get clogged and they don't breathe. My feet get very hot and yesterday was very warm. Also, in my first albergue experience in Pamplona I lost a pair of socks, which is near a disaster with footwear being the currency of the camino. I did go to an outdoors store to buy a pair of hiking socks. Yesterday was the first day I wore them so possibly they don't breathe so well as the others. I still have one pair of my original so I suppose I will rely on them more.
When this kind of problem happens you begin to find others in similar straights. We spoke with a Swedish fellow last night while having a beer waiting for Spanish magic dinner hour of 8pm. He has been plagued by blisters and has decided to ignore them and walk today. Then last night a young German woman from Munich who did half tha Camino last year and is completing
Friday, September 17, 2010
Los Arcos cont'd
I couldn't reconnect with the previous post so I will finish up here.
Figs are just ripening here and we have enjoyed many. Farmers seem to leave some for the pilgrims and barricade off where they don't want us to go. It helps when the journey is long and food sources are meager. We have also found almonds falling. I don't think I have ever tasted them so fresh.
I met a few young men from Hungary- going all the way to Santiago. They were laden with not only camping gear but also climbing gear. Quite a load but along with it they carried great enthusiasm - and quite good English.
Tonight Katie and I are luxuriating in a shared room in a hotel. Love it!
No competition for the shower or washing clothes. We even have a fan to help dry our clothes.
Our bodies are very sore though getting somewhat used to the daily rhythm. I would like to stop for a day somewhere but I am waiting for the right spot. When I was in Chartres we were given angel cards on two occasions. One of mine was spontaneity. It's not my forte but a great place to try it out.
I have a few foot issues. My pinkies are not too happy at the moment, but I'm tending to them and they don't hurt while I'm walking. I'm just trying to stay present to them.
Tomorrow we will head to either Viana or Logrono depending on how we are feeling.
Katie just cut her poncho (a little too short) to get rid of some weight.
Time to turn in and rest our dear bodies that are carrying us all this way. Goodnight. Heather
Figs are just ripening here and we have enjoyed many. Farmers seem to leave some for the pilgrims and barricade off where they don't want us to go. It helps when the journey is long and food sources are meager. We have also found almonds falling. I don't think I have ever tasted them so fresh.
I met a few young men from Hungary- going all the way to Santiago. They were laden with not only camping gear but also climbing gear. Quite a load but along with it they carried great enthusiasm - and quite good English.
Tonight Katie and I are luxuriating in a shared room in a hotel. Love it!
No competition for the shower or washing clothes. We even have a fan to help dry our clothes.
Our bodies are very sore though getting somewhat used to the daily rhythm. I would like to stop for a day somewhere but I am waiting for the right spot. When I was in Chartres we were given angel cards on two occasions. One of mine was spontaneity. It's not my forte but a great place to try it out.
I have a few foot issues. My pinkies are not too happy at the moment, but I'm tending to them and they don't hurt while I'm walking. I'm just trying to stay present to them.
Tomorrow we will head to either Viana or Logrono depending on how we are feeling.
Katie just cut her poncho (a little too short) to get rid of some weight.
Time to turn in and rest our dear bodies that are carrying us all this way. Goodnight. Heather
Los Arcos
Dear family and friends
Day 6 and the tides seem to be shifting. Our little camino family of four is growing in new directions. Katie and I stayed with Marcie and Jennie in a municipal auberge last night in Estella. We have decided we are too old for this Shirley Mclean be damned. We were in a room with some 26 people all in bunk beds - no ladders! The bunks where Katie and I were given (we each were given a bed number by a very grouchy man) were side by side as two bunks were touching. They were both on top - and right beside the washroom. A very nice Spanish young man who was under me - he was very handsome - walking the camino before his marriage :)- offered me the bottom bunk which I would have loved. However the bottom beside was still empty and I did not relish sleeping beside a strange man. Lucky too because the o e who took that bed was a very unfriendly man.
There were 2 showers and 2 toilets which men and women shared. I'm sure you can imagine the snoring. I fell asleep with no problem but then someone came in past midnight and woke me up. I had little success falling asleep again even with earplugs.
Marcie and Jenny met some Spanish cyclists from north of Santiago and were glowing with delight this morning. So today we each took more space to ourselves as we walked - finding our own rhythms. I think our littl family provided safety and companionship in the early days when it was all new to us.
I had dinner last night with two women in their 50s- one from the US and one from the Netherlands. They both see this trip as a time away from families who rely on them, and this space to discover who they are individually. I could really relate; the discussion set the tone today for a more solitary walk.
We left Estella under cloudy skies which shortly shifted to mist then rain. Soon we hit a site called Fuente de Vino - for the Peregrinos. There are two taPs - one for water and the other for wine. I didn't embibe -7:30am is a little too early... But I took lots of photos.
The walk today was extraordinarily beautiful. After a short hefty climb we came to a bar ( where cafe and all sorts of food is available. I had my first cup of tea in 3 days! I had been walking with a Swedish couple who are doing the camino in 2 parts - fall and spring. We had a good visit together.
For the rest of the day we walked through vinyards and farming country. Unlike our country, they don't cover every inch in vinyards. But rather are combined with hay fields and ploughed fields. Big piles of hay bales are foun throughout. Around noon, Katie and I met up and rested against one of the piles of hay eating some French bread from yesterdays lunch but this time with a hunk of chocolate inside. Yum! Marcie and Jenny happened to come by while we had our siesta and took a photo.
Day 6 and the tides seem to be shifting. Our little camino family of four is growing in new directions. Katie and I stayed with Marcie and Jennie in a municipal auberge last night in Estella. We have decided we are too old for this Shirley Mclean be damned. We were in a room with some 26 people all in bunk beds - no ladders! The bunks where Katie and I were given (we each were given a bed number by a very grouchy man) were side by side as two bunks were touching. They were both on top - and right beside the washroom. A very nice Spanish young man who was under me - he was very handsome - walking the camino before his marriage :)- offered me the bottom bunk which I would have loved. However the bottom beside was still empty and I did not relish sleeping beside a strange man. Lucky too because the o e who took that bed was a very unfriendly man.
There were 2 showers and 2 toilets which men and women shared. I'm sure you can imagine the snoring. I fell asleep with no problem but then someone came in past midnight and woke me up. I had little success falling asleep again even with earplugs.
Marcie and Jenny met some Spanish cyclists from north of Santiago and were glowing with delight this morning. So today we each took more space to ourselves as we walked - finding our own rhythms. I think our littl family provided safety and companionship in the early days when it was all new to us.
I had dinner last night with two women in their 50s- one from the US and one from the Netherlands. They both see this trip as a time away from families who rely on them, and this space to discover who they are individually. I could really relate; the discussion set the tone today for a more solitary walk.
We left Estella under cloudy skies which shortly shifted to mist then rain. Soon we hit a site called Fuente de Vino - for the Peregrinos. There are two taPs - one for water and the other for wine. I didn't embibe -7:30am is a little too early... But I took lots of photos.
The walk today was extraordinarily beautiful. After a short hefty climb we came to a bar ( where cafe and all sorts of food is available. I had my first cup of tea in 3 days! I had been walking with a Swedish couple who are doing the camino in 2 parts - fall and spring. We had a good visit together.
For the rest of the day we walked through vinyards and farming country. Unlike our country, they don't cover every inch in vinyards. But rather are combined with hay fields and ploughed fields. Big piles of hay bales are foun throughout. Around noon, Katie and I met up and rested against one of the piles of hay eating some French bread from yesterdays lunch but this time with a hunk of chocolate inside. Yum! Marcie and Jenny happened to come by while we had our siesta and took a photo.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Puenta de la Reine
Today I Arrived at Puenta de la Reina hot and exhausted. For the most part I had a wonderful day. The sun was shining and the morning was fresh. Pamplona is a beautiful city- we left through the university grounds with large grassy, park-like areas and many huge trees. Katie and I picked up a croissant with chocolate inside and thought we were in heaven. It was a long climb to the top of the ridge, through stony, dry paths. On either side was miles of ploughed farmlands bordered by trees of all sorts.
At the top of the peak an enterprising man was selling sandwiches and a drink for 3euros. Best money I ever spent. Having coke at lunch is getting to be a habit. Usually I hate coke but cycling with little energy I learned it's value which is being translated to this walk.
Our group was separated for a while but it was good to have some time alone to reflect on this new year of my life. I feel very priveleged to be on this trek, walking in footsteps centuries old, meeting people from all over the world, being totally present in extraordinarily beautiful country.
It was a difficult day for a few of us. For me it was the heat at the latter part of our day.
Staying in a very modest hotel which provides all that I need is a delight and reprieve from the auberges, nice as some of them are.
As I was walking along this afternoon, in the heat, i was listening to oliver schrorer playing his violin on his album Camino.
It lifted our spirits and seemed to be enjoyed by all who heard it.
Katie our forager introduced us to hazelnut, walnut and today- almond trees. We have loved learning what they look like and have spent time picking and cracking open their shells so we can enjoy their freshness. Blackberries also. Or path is often lined with them.
Quince seeds too- cured Jenny's sore throat. Then today, wild fennel lined our path.
We met a group today with a few BC residents- Victoria, Richmond and Burnaby. But they are part of a tour and not all of them walk let alone carry a pack. Interesting
how values invade even this. In many ways there is a lack of credibility gives to those who do not "carry their own weight" as it were.
Tomorrow we head for Estella. It is forcast to be cooler and the weather pattern is about to change calling for rain on Friday/Saturday which will provide another new experience.
It is time to go to bed. Goodnight all. Heather
At the top of the peak an enterprising man was selling sandwiches and a drink for 3euros. Best money I ever spent. Having coke at lunch is getting to be a habit. Usually I hate coke but cycling with little energy I learned it's value which is being translated to this walk.
Our group was separated for a while but it was good to have some time alone to reflect on this new year of my life. I feel very priveleged to be on this trek, walking in footsteps centuries old, meeting people from all over the world, being totally present in extraordinarily beautiful country.
It was a difficult day for a few of us. For me it was the heat at the latter part of our day.
Staying in a very modest hotel which provides all that I need is a delight and reprieve from the auberges, nice as some of them are.
As I was walking along this afternoon, in the heat, i was listening to oliver schrorer playing his violin on his album Camino.
It lifted our spirits and seemed to be enjoyed by all who heard it.
Katie our forager introduced us to hazelnut, walnut and today- almond trees. We have loved learning what they look like and have spent time picking and cracking open their shells so we can enjoy their freshness. Blackberries also. Or path is often lined with them.
Quince seeds too- cured Jenny's sore throat. Then today, wild fennel lined our path.
We met a group today with a few BC residents- Victoria, Richmond and Burnaby. But they are part of a tour and not all of them walk let alone carry a pack. Interesting
how values invade even this. In many ways there is a lack of credibility gives to those who do not "carry their own weight" as it were.
Tomorrow we head for Estella. It is forcast to be cooler and the weather pattern is about to change calling for rain on Friday/Saturday which will provide another new experience.
It is time to go to bed. Goodnight all. Heather
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Pamplona: Back on at last
Dear Family and Friends
Trying to work with this blog in Spain has been challenging. The blog comes out in english, but all the instructions are in spanish and the instructions are in different places.
Last night we stayed in Zubiri, and stayed in a small private Auberge with 8 people to a room. The walk to Zibiri was not as bad as the day before, but the path descending to the town was steep and like a river bed. We were tired, but not exhausted. Today, we walked to Pamplona. The walk itself was beautiful and not so difficult, but the Auberge we stayed in did not provide any breakfast. There were many towns listed on the map, so we expected we could get food along the way. However, after 15km we were able to find food.
We had tortilla espanole and a coke! and it tasted fantastic! Eggs , potatoes, peppers, spinach and prawns! The walk today was also very hot- quite a change from the walk from St.Jean Pied de Port through the mountains.
The last 5 km to Pamplona was a breeze. It was amazing to walk into town, remembering our visit several years ago when Jim and I along with the MacDonalds stayed in Burgete. Today we felt like real pilgrims coming up to the walled town.
I have been travelling with 3 other Americans. Two young women Jenny and Marcie from Bellingham washington who have just graduated from Western University in Spanish (very helpful), and a woman Katie, from Boston in her late 50´s. I call her the Sagittarian MBA artist. We all get on very well and are having a good time together and meeting many others along the way. We are staying in a big albergue tonight. My first time not in a private one. It is very big, but very well organized and although all in a big room together, they have divisions in the wall for every 6 bunks. It is very active and lively with languages being spoken from all over the world - walkers and cyclists. It feels like university all over again.
Tomorrow is going to be a bit brutal. We have a big peak to climb and a very dramatic descent, although not as bad as the first day - 24km to Puente de la Reine. Our bodies are hurting quite a bit - lots of aches and pains. Surprisingly my hips are not the problem, and my knees only complain on the steep descents. But my back is feeling lots of stress. I´'m sorry to inform Brian that his socks guaranteed not to blister are not quite what they claim to be, since I discovered a blister on my big toe tonight. I bought an extra pair of socks so I will try that along with some medical attention to my feet.
Signing off for tonight. Heather
So that´s all for now folks. I figure I´m still in the breaking in stage. I met a fellow coming out of Roncevalles, older than myself and a very seasoned Camino walker - he has walked it 4 times and once from Athens. It took him 4 months! He told me that within a week my body would adjust and not feel the pain, so I would like to think he knows what he speaks about. By the way, he is doing it again ' this time after a hip replacement :)
I have also learned to feel the rebound of the earth - which has helped amazingly well and seems to limit the
pain in the joints.
Trying to work with this blog in Spain has been challenging. The blog comes out in english, but all the instructions are in spanish and the instructions are in different places.
Last night we stayed in Zubiri, and stayed in a small private Auberge with 8 people to a room. The walk to Zibiri was not as bad as the day before, but the path descending to the town was steep and like a river bed. We were tired, but not exhausted. Today, we walked to Pamplona. The walk itself was beautiful and not so difficult, but the Auberge we stayed in did not provide any breakfast. There were many towns listed on the map, so we expected we could get food along the way. However, after 15km we were able to find food.
We had tortilla espanole and a coke! and it tasted fantastic! Eggs , potatoes, peppers, spinach and prawns! The walk today was also very hot- quite a change from the walk from St.Jean Pied de Port through the mountains.
The last 5 km to Pamplona was a breeze. It was amazing to walk into town, remembering our visit several years ago when Jim and I along with the MacDonalds stayed in Burgete. Today we felt like real pilgrims coming up to the walled town.
I have been travelling with 3 other Americans. Two young women Jenny and Marcie from Bellingham washington who have just graduated from Western University in Spanish (very helpful), and a woman Katie, from Boston in her late 50´s. I call her the Sagittarian MBA artist. We all get on very well and are having a good time together and meeting many others along the way. We are staying in a big albergue tonight. My first time not in a private one. It is very big, but very well organized and although all in a big room together, they have divisions in the wall for every 6 bunks. It is very active and lively with languages being spoken from all over the world - walkers and cyclists. It feels like university all over again.
Tomorrow is going to be a bit brutal. We have a big peak to climb and a very dramatic descent, although not as bad as the first day - 24km to Puente de la Reine. Our bodies are hurting quite a bit - lots of aches and pains. Surprisingly my hips are not the problem, and my knees only complain on the steep descents. But my back is feeling lots of stress. I´'m sorry to inform Brian that his socks guaranteed not to blister are not quite what they claim to be, since I discovered a blister on my big toe tonight. I bought an extra pair of socks so I will try that along with some medical attention to my feet.
Signing off for tonight. Heather
So that´s all for now folks. I figure I´m still in the breaking in stage. I met a fellow coming out of Roncevalles, older than myself and a very seasoned Camino walker - he has walked it 4 times and once from Athens. It took him 4 months! He told me that within a week my body would adjust and not feel the pain, so I would like to think he knows what he speaks about. By the way, he is doing it again ' this time after a hip replacement :)
I have also learned to feel the rebound of the earth - which has helped amazingly well and seems to limit the
pain in the joints.
Friday, September 10, 2010
Today St Jean Pied La Port
Dear family and friends. Today I leave Chartres and head to st Jean at the foot of the Pyrenees where I will begin my walk to Roncevalles on Sunday, sept 12. I know it will be a challenging day because I begin at 200 metres go to 1600 then back down to 900. Also, other than taking walks around Chartres, I have not walked steep grades nor distances. However, I am hoping my enthusiasm and my trai
ing over the past months
will carry me through. This week in
Chartres has been a very special preparation too for this walk.
Lauren Artress gave us much history about Chartre over the week. Last night she called it a pilgrim church rather than a coronation church - marked by a different orientation of the doors of the cathedral. Also, being Marys church, it has no crucifixs only symbols of new life. The labyrinth which has been there since the 12th century has 272 stones(if I remember correctly)- the number of days gestation.
Another thing that struck me was that when they needed help and resources to build the church,
people of the community could haul stones from the quarry- but only if they had resolved differences with people in their lives.
The bodysoul component led by Mary Hamilton deepened the work. And those of you who know Marys work will understand how brilliant that can be.
Walking the labyrinth Thursday night really was beyond words. It was open only for us. The angels who work with Lauren lit 1000 candles which lit our way - the path of the pilgrims down into the crypt to our ladys chapel (a dark Madonna carved out of pear wood). Then we processed up to the labyrinth in that great cathedral. An ensemble from Paris sang and a man played a string instrument that looked like a mandolin. I had to keep pinching myself to realize this was real. It was truly extraordinary.
My companions during this week have been a very important part. Today we all go in different directions but they too have become part of my walk to Santiago. I know I walk for many.
So my friends. I will post this. connecting with Internet and this blog has been spotty, so I writing on my iPhone. I apologize for errors and I thank all of you who have helped me along the way. Two of my new friends travel with me to Paris which will be very good way of parting.
Till next time. Au revoir. Heather
ing over the past months
will carry me through. This week in
Chartres has been a very special preparation too for this walk.
Lauren Artress gave us much history about Chartre over the week. Last night she called it a pilgrim church rather than a coronation church - marked by a different orientation of the doors of the cathedral. Also, being Marys church, it has no crucifixs only symbols of new life. The labyrinth which has been there since the 12th century has 272 stones(if I remember correctly)- the number of days gestation.
Another thing that struck me was that when they needed help and resources to build the church,
people of the community could haul stones from the quarry- but only if they had resolved differences with people in their lives.
The bodysoul component led by Mary Hamilton deepened the work. And those of you who know Marys work will understand how brilliant that can be.
Walking the labyrinth Thursday night really was beyond words. It was open only for us. The angels who work with Lauren lit 1000 candles which lit our way - the path of the pilgrims down into the crypt to our ladys chapel (a dark Madonna carved out of pear wood). Then we processed up to the labyrinth in that great cathedral. An ensemble from Paris sang and a man played a string instrument that looked like a mandolin. I had to keep pinching myself to realize this was real. It was truly extraordinary.
My companions during this week have been a very important part. Today we all go in different directions but they too have become part of my walk to Santiago. I know I walk for many.
So my friends. I will post this. connecting with Internet and this blog has been spotty, so I writing on my iPhone. I apologize for errors and I thank all of you who have helped me along the way. Two of my new friends travel with me to Paris which will be very good way of parting.
Till next time. Au revoir. Heather
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
The Beginning
Dear Family and friends
This is a whole new adventure. I am at Chartres, France for a week doing a workshop on the labyrinth.
Two days before it started I explored Paris - art galleries and the latin quarter primarily and took great delight in navigating the metro as well as doing lots of walking. I love France.Chartres is an amazing place - very powerful and full of paradoxes. It is unique in that it is strictly a church dedicated to Mary (from the beginning) and the feminine, although it is still very patriarchal. Also; they have been very accommodating in our use of the labyrinth; though it is largely ignored here. Chartres was the place where pilgrims enroute to Santiago de Compostella found refuge for rest and illness: The entire lower floor - the Crypt was used for their needs. For me, it is a time for me to focus on my intention and preparation for my journey through France and Spain on my way to Santiago - after a very busy spring and summer. The Black Madonna's (there are 2 here) are especially significant for me - they are real and not so idealized as Mary has been over the years.
Enroute to France, I lost my badge for the Company of Pilgrims; however today I was given a real shell from a restaurant called LeSerpent, which identifies a pilgrim walking to Santiago. That is the way it has been going on this journey:
I want to explain the title of my Blog - Heather-laughingat64. In many ways it is a dedication to my mother who at 95 has found joy and laughter in her life facilitated by dementia. I have never seen my mother so happy and full of joy. Had she had the opportunities in life that I have had, she would have loved this adventure. Dementia tends to free what has been repressed in the unconscious- our unlived life as it were. She demonstrates that often what is hidden is very good and it is sad that she was not able to live this joy throughout her life - no wonder everyone loves her where she is living. So on the eve of turning 64, I am approaching this journey laughing, hoping it will keep my spirits up when the going gets tough.
There are 19 people at this workshop - from France, Scotland, Ireland, the Netherlands, US and a very large contingent from Canada. Unlike many BodySoul affiliated workshops, there are 4 men, and it is a delight to see them so fully engaged in this work. Mary Hamilton and Lauren Artress leading this workshop have been brilliant; and I have met many fascinating and inspiring people here.
I cannot promise how often I will be able to write in this blog. This is a very personal and spiritual journey for me. There may be times I simply cannot put forward what is in my heart, but I will not abandon it, so as I am having to learn, wait patiently and something will eventually appear.
I am thankful that I have eventually figured this Blog out - with much help from Mike. Deep gratitude to you Mike. Goodnight all. Heather
This is a whole new adventure. I am at Chartres, France for a week doing a workshop on the labyrinth.
Two days before it started I explored Paris - art galleries and the latin quarter primarily and took great delight in navigating the metro as well as doing lots of walking. I love France.Chartres is an amazing place - very powerful and full of paradoxes. It is unique in that it is strictly a church dedicated to Mary (from the beginning) and the feminine, although it is still very patriarchal. Also; they have been very accommodating in our use of the labyrinth; though it is largely ignored here. Chartres was the place where pilgrims enroute to Santiago de Compostella found refuge for rest and illness: The entire lower floor - the Crypt was used for their needs. For me, it is a time for me to focus on my intention and preparation for my journey through France and Spain on my way to Santiago - after a very busy spring and summer. The Black Madonna's (there are 2 here) are especially significant for me - they are real and not so idealized as Mary has been over the years.
Enroute to France, I lost my badge for the Company of Pilgrims; however today I was given a real shell from a restaurant called LeSerpent, which identifies a pilgrim walking to Santiago. That is the way it has been going on this journey:
I want to explain the title of my Blog - Heather-laughingat64. In many ways it is a dedication to my mother who at 95 has found joy and laughter in her life facilitated by dementia. I have never seen my mother so happy and full of joy. Had she had the opportunities in life that I have had, she would have loved this adventure. Dementia tends to free what has been repressed in the unconscious- our unlived life as it were. She demonstrates that often what is hidden is very good and it is sad that she was not able to live this joy throughout her life - no wonder everyone loves her where she is living. So on the eve of turning 64, I am approaching this journey laughing, hoping it will keep my spirits up when the going gets tough.
There are 19 people at this workshop - from France, Scotland, Ireland, the Netherlands, US and a very large contingent from Canada. Unlike many BodySoul affiliated workshops, there are 4 men, and it is a delight to see them so fully engaged in this work. Mary Hamilton and Lauren Artress leading this workshop have been brilliant; and I have met many fascinating and inspiring people here.
I cannot promise how often I will be able to write in this blog. This is a very personal and spiritual journey for me. There may be times I simply cannot put forward what is in my heart, but I will not abandon it, so as I am having to learn, wait patiently and something will eventually appear.
I am thankful that I have eventually figured this Blog out - with much help from Mike. Deep gratitude to you Mike. Goodnight all. Heather
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