Wednesday, September 22, 2010

On the Road Again - Belorado

Dear Family and Friends,
I set off this morning in the dark with the stars twinkling.  I love the early mornings- it is so fresh and new and anything is possible.  There was one other person ahead of me, so I kept him in my scope as I crossed the bridge to the path to Belorado.  My feet felt quite good and I felt a lightness to my step.  I missed my friends I had walked with for several days, but I realized that the   group mind  was operating causing me to often walk faster than my pace.  Also, there was a manner that decisions - like where to stay, were often affected by   the group.  I loved the freedom of finding my own pace, stopping when I wanted or needed, and had no obligation to anyone- not that I really did, but the power of the group is very strong. 
The first person I met was a young blonde man from Norway. He had just graduated from highschool and was walking the camino to help him decide which direction he wanted to take his life from many options open to him.  It is interesting how some people are very easy to connect with.  I think of how dogs, very quickly either gravitate to others, or there is a negative vibe that causes them to snarl or run the other way.  Well this young man and I quickly got into some very deep and philosophical topics.  It seems he is an artist, and I think would like to pursue that option, but understands the difficulties of pursuing that avenue.  He is heading for Santiago, then Paris, then India - many months of journeying.  What a life that young man is going to have.
My next walking partner was a lovely New Zealand woman whom I had met several days before.  She has had many challenges physically and walks quite slowly, but I had wanted to visit with her and was happy to go at a slow pace because of my own foot issues.  She left Christ Church, where she lives just 2 days after the earthquake.  I think it was difficult for her because of leaving her family behind to deal with all the aftershocks and damage, but she did with encouragement from her family.  The common comment of many women my age walking this path, when I ask what their family thinks of their journey, without exception, they all say their family thinks they are crazy, or don´t understand, but that that is nothing new....... It was also interesting getting her perspective of her role in life.  Often discussions move to how to be a parent to adult children.  She told me her vision of herself was not a breast on legs and she did not want to become a wrinkled breast on legs in her old age.  Rather, she felt she modelled how she wants to live her life.  My laughter at her image danced over the countryside.  She broke me up.
The countryside today was sweeping mowed wheat fields - golden rolling hills as far as the eye could see.  Very beautiful.  Our path followed the middle of such fields. It was very peaceful.  Many of the towns are closed tighter than a drum - no food to be had.  However, in the last town before Belorado, a lovely Spanish woman had an icecream stand.  The chocolate almond icream stick touched the spot!  The last 6 km was tough.  THe sun was beating down and we walked on a gravel path alongside the highway.  I tried to tone out the traffic with my ipòd which helped a great deal. 
I have nothing but good things to say about the Spanish people.  THey have gone out of their way to be helpful.  I find that if I try to speak Spanish, they warm to you immediately.  I am staying in a delightful little inn with beautiful flowers outside my window.  THe Senora who owns it gave me directions for the post office.  I shipped my sleeping bag, journal and postcards to Santiago - almost 1 kg!  I might even fly tomorrow, I´ll be so light.  I decided that even if I choose to stay in an Aubergue or have no choice, I still have my silk liner and if necessary, I can wear my warm clothes to bed to keep warm. Private Aubergues often have blankets. It is amazing how your pack can feel so light in the morning and so very heavy at the end of the day.  Still, I can feel the weight in my heels, so I think I´m better off with the lighter pack.  The clerk in the post office was incredibly helpful and even gave me 2 postcards on the Camino as a gift.  Or if you ask for directions, people will walk with you to make sure you know the way to go.
While in Belorado after visiting the postoffice, I stopped at a cafe to get some lunch.  Another woman with a pack came and sat a couple of tables over from me.  We were the only ones there.  I spoke to her and she responded in English.  She is Swiss, from the German side, so English is easier for her rather than French.  She has walked from Switzerland!  350km in Switzerland.  Over 1000 in France and 800 in Spain.  She walks 30km per day and is carrying 10kg.  She says she is a farmer and is used to walking a lot.  Amazing stories here.
I also met a young french man in Santo Domingo de la Calzada who was travelling on a bicycle.  He has been travelling for a month - from France, is going to Santiago, then to Africa - for 4 or 5 years.  He is part of an organization who offers help and he will be doing that in many places around Africa. His bicycle weighs 80kg. He has a computer, tenting equipment, a shower and whatever he needs to be self sufficient for that period of time.  It doesn´t diminish what I am doing, but it certainly puts it into perspective.
Tomorrow I head for San Juan de Ortega - 23km from here.  Today was 24km.  In two days I will be in the big town of Burgos, the beginning of the Meseta which sounds like the prairies.  Many don´t like it because of its unchanging and flat terrain, but I am quite looking forward to it.  I have been energized by my 2 days of rest so am eager for the adventure to continue.
I want to say thank you for those of you supporting me along the way.  I have only recently discovered the comments.....Working on my iphone has been limiting,so have not managed to get into the full layout of how this blogspot works, but I do appreciate your emails and comments.  Today I am in an internet cafe with Spanish music blaring.  I do hope this makes sense.
Until next time.  Adios.  Heather

1 comment:

  1. Hi Heather
    I very much enjoy reading you updates. Keep them coming. Doug

    ReplyDelete