Burgos

Dear Family and Friends,
I will try this one more time.  I arrived into Burgos early afternoon.  The entrance to the city is through a very boring industrial area, then through the streets to the center of town where the Cathedral is located.  But I will retrace my steps from Belorado to Ages. 
When I awakened in Belorado, I could smell fire and wondered if a building was on fire.  The inn keeper informed me that that was from the bakery where they make their daily pan (bread.)  So no wonder it is so good, they bake it in wood ovens.  I left the inn at 7 am in the dark.  I found it difficult to find the symbols that guide us along the camino, so  I went into a hotel to ask.  There were many pilgrims there, including a German woman named Suzanne I had met the previous day.  I decided to have some breakfast with her first then head off.  We had to go along the highway for a while before turning off onto the trail, which held closely to a busy highway.  As we moved from the roadway to the trail, we met Erica, the Swiss woman who has walked from Switzerland.  Her image will forever be etched in my mind as she radiates enthusiasm.  Because she is Germanic Swiss and Suzanne is German, the two of them began speaking rapidly in German.  A Frenchman was walking along at the same time, so we talked a bit, and then they all left me in their dust.  I was still nursing my blisters, so I was happy to walk at my own pace.
THe fields were rolling hills of cut hay and a farmer was ploughing a very large field adjacent to the path.  It struck me that this journey is allowing old fields within me to be ploughed under preparing for the planting of new seeds in another season.
As I walked along a young tall blonde man came up beside me and spoke English.  He was from Norway and just graduated from highschool.  He is walking to Santiago, then heading to Paris, and then to India in an effort to discover the direction he wants to take his life.  We made an easy connection and soon got into a very philosophical conversation.  Such wisdom in so young a person. I have no doubt he will discover his path succussfully.
Part of our journey took us on a path through the cut hay field.  It created a beautiful sight seeing all these people walking across golden fields.  I have met people from Israel, Ireland, France, Italy, Britain, South Africa, Spain, Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, New Zealand, US, and Canada. / I might have missed a few.  Everyone greets each other by Ola, then Buen Camino.  It does not matter what language is spoken, those greetings are exchanged automatically, usually with a smile.  It's quite amazing.
When I stopped for a tea at a little cafe, I met a couple from New Brunswick/ from Acadia and we walked together for a while.  They have both done the CAmino before, and the husband another time before that from France / over 60 days. 
The rolling fields shifted into a steep climb on a very rocky path.  Once again the path was lined with swaths of heather, some coming into bloom and others dying out from its blooming period.  Ferns also abounded.  There was a feel of out for a sunday stroll as we entered a pine forest which looked like it had been planted possibly 10 years before.  I stopped for a little picnic with a boccodillo / sandwich made from a loaf of french bread and often ham and /or cheese.  I have promised my feet I will air them every 2 hours and they love me for it. 
The closed pine path opened up into a road way which was very difficult to walk.  It was helped along by walking with the Acadian couple and the wife of the other french couple from James Bay / Amoss/  She came up to me and said she had been wanting to talk with someone from Vancouver.  She said that she felt very proud to be a canadian during the olympics.  It brought Canada together and she could not say enough good things about how it unfolded.  It was nice to hear.
The day grated as we walked a good 12km through this roadway.  I had to move on another 2/3 km. to Ages, so by the time I arrived, I was pretty exhausted and other parts of my feet were making noises.
After my disaster with the computer in the aubergue, I headed to bed around 8 pm and felt better int he morning.
Today, I began again in the dark but this time lit by a full moon.  Somehow it felt comforting. I could see several groups of people walking ahead on the roadway.  Today would be almost all on paved road, which isn't quite so exciting and it is very hard on the body.  I met another Norwegian who looked uncannily like my brother, beard and all.  Since he was 52, his was still red as was Robert's at that age.  His age caught me unawares, as it reminded me of the age when my father died.  I guess having time to reflect brings to mind some of these things hidden in the recesses of our inner life. 
At another stop, I stopped to get some breakfast.  I love their tortillas / it seems to be an egg/almost omelette, although it seems to have some levening, and it is filled with cooked potato. Sometimes it comes between a piece of french bread.  I met a Spanish couple who were cycling the Camino to Burgos.  He was quite keen to speak English and we got into a good conversation for almost an hour.  They have visited Canada before going eastward and next time want to head west. They were delightful.
The walk into Burgos was very tedious on a fairly main road and then through industrial area.  The city is quite big// 170,000, so it was a long way. 
I visited the Cathedral which is a stunning baroque structure with amazing art work.  The organist was playing while visitors explored the many chapels and museum pieces.  After picking up some supplies, I headed to the hotel Jim had discovered ont he internet.  It was in the University area which was about an hour out of town, so I took a bus there, my feet not being too happy at having to walk any more.  I still have some blister challenges, but nothing like the pinkies, so very managable.  I managed to make it under the wire for the lunch menu, which is a 3 course menue from 2to 4, which means you don´t need to wait until 8 or 8:30 to eat.  The dining room was quite exclusive and expensive, and although pilgrims are not plentiful around here, I asked the waiter if they had a menu peregrino.  I had a delicious 3 course dinner including wine for 13Euros. Bonanza! 
So now, its off to Hornillos del Camino tomorrow, and a new adventure in exploring the Meseta.
Good night all.  Buen Camino (to me, and all my fellow pilgrims :), .  Heather



I met a Spanish couple