Santo Domingo de la Conzada

Dear Family and friends.
The past two days have been quite low for me. The blisters on my little toes have been more than I bargained for. Still they say you get what you need on the Camino, so there is much to learn. I did bus to Santo Domingo to keep pace but also I was not in a particularly nice place to stay. On the bus I could see that the valley opened quite broadly with ploughed fields and vinyards. It became quite sunny and warm. Attempts to find a room were not successful. They said the festvities went on for a week which meant finding a room was difficult so I settled for a pensione. The basic level wad through the floor, but as I am inclined to do I felt I could do no better. Later in the day I discovered I was wrong on two counts. I went back and negotiated my departure - all in Spanish I might add- with mote than a little help from my iPhone. A lovely Swedish couple I had met along the way told me of a very nice hostal ( more like a little inn) they were in. I waited a good two hours, but they indeed did have a room for a very descent price. As it turned out it held much promise.
This morning I realizes that I should not walk again today. The baby toes are most unhappy and my heel has been throbbing. The owner of the hostal took me to the emergency to have a nurse check my toes. The bandages available do not accommodate the awkwardness of the 360 degree blistered surface. Second skin does but they don't sell it here. The male nurse who spoke a little English gave me som nice coushy dressing to last me a few days.
I return to the hospital this afternoon to see a doctor to rule out any problem with my throbbing heels. The medical system here handles all this at no charge. The owner of the hostal has a very big heart. He speaks even less English than I do Spanish , but there is a lightness to it which is quite fun.
I met up with Katie yesterday and we had dinner together (coincidentally in the restaurant owned by the owner of where I am staying. Although not plagued with blisters she is finding
this journey far more gruelling than she had expected.
Santo Domingo is an interesting little town. The story goes that so
e pilgrims along with their 18 year old son stopped at Santo Domingo on their way to Santiago.
A young woman in the inn fell in live with the lad but when the sentiments were not reciprocated she put a silver cup in his bags then called the magistrate telling he had stolen it. He was tried and hanged. When the parents went to see their son he spoke saying Santo Domingo de la Conzada had saved his life. The magistrate did not believe and said their son was as alive as the roasted cock and chicken he was having for dinner. At that moment the cock crowed and the chicken jumped off the plate and began to sing.
Now this place is called : Santo Domingo de la Cazada where the hen crows after being roasted.
I went into the church today to see the chicken and rooster which have been kept (changed regularly). It is a lovely Baroque church but the rooster and chicken alluded me. Finally I discovered the very fancy cage they are kept in in the church after hearing the rooster crow. The saying goes that if you hear the cock crow you will reach Santiago. Before I left the cathedral he had crowed at least 5 times.
The story was recorded in Avignon as early as the 12th century. For me it tells me to have faith.
I have also made an executive decision to mail my sleeping bag to Santiago to lighten my load. I missed the post today by 3 minutes
but I have decided I will stay in small hotels along the way. I greatly admire those who can stay in alberques. Lisa (BSR)I believe you did, but after trying it for a better part of a week I just can't work that hard at night after working my body so hard during the day. Perhaps it is still my perfectionism that creates the inner conflict. Others I meet have no problem with it. But at this point that feels clearer to me.
Tomorrow Belorado. Heather