Dear Family and Friends
We passed the half way mark today! Now that is progress!
I stopped at Calzadilla de la Cueze because I am trying to listen to my body. I could have carried on another 7.8 km to Terradillos de los Templarios, but my feet really do react negatively when I push. They are doing pretty well, but I am not blister free and I learned my lesson last time. It was very hard for me to tell myself it was OK to stay. I´m not sure what it is that pushes me. I do have a schedule that lays out the distances and days, and this does add on another day before I arrive in Leon- Sunday rather than saturday. But I do know this Camino is not a race, and it is providing me with challenges I need to attend to.
It was helpful yesterday being with a group of women who are also moving more slowly along the camino. Four of us went for dinner last night. Sheila, my Irish friend, Laura, a young woman from Toronto, and Janet, a woman from NewZealand. They are all in their 50´s. Janet is interesting in that she is a single mom and has raised her children on her own. They are all adults now. She is a nurse working on North Island. Her daugher and boyfriend, after travelling 2 years decided to come home and rent a place for 6 months for their summer to give themselves time to decide what to do. Janet decided that was her opportunity to go on an adventure. She has allowed her daughter and boyfriend to rent her place, she took out a loan and is travelling for 6 months- 2 of them for the Camino. She is a delight.
Laura has been sick with a cold and has been taking it very slowly also. She has come realizing she was not really prepared to do the Camino, so is taking it slow. Sheila has an organized trip- with bookings for the entire trip and her bags are transported to each stop. She had problems with her foot before she left, so decided it best not to try to carry a pack. THis is her 50th birthday present.
I also met two delightful Swedish women this morning. They have a trolly rigged with a harness which they share pulling. It carries both of their packs. They are staying in aubergues, though she confessed that she is taking sleeping pills to help her sleep. They are also doing a blog, so we exchanged addresses.
They were very interested in talking about books of interest. My friends from last night arrived, and I walked with them a bit, but I hope I meet up with the Swedish women again. They are around my age.
They told me about an experience they had Ermita de San Nicolas. I had heard about this place from an Austrian man in Hontanas. He had experienced it a couple of years ago and wanted to take his new wife of 3 months. When I arrived, I was told they do not accept pilgrims before 4pm and she was very discouraging of me waiting. It is a small 13Century chapel which also houses cooking facilites without electricity, and 10 aubergue beds. They cook together, have dinner by candle light, then have a ritual. Anita (the Swedish woman) said they read a poem by Pablo Neruda, did a ritual, then washed their feet. Like the Austrian man, she said it was the highlight of her trip so far. I did meet the Austrian couple the next day, and he too was rejected on the day I tried to stay there. He said they were not very welcoming, although 2 people who experienced it this year have had nothing but good things to say about it.
The path today got a bit tedious towards the end. It was a stretch of 17.5km without much relief. There was a stand after about 10km - in the middle of no where- a trailer with fruit, sweets, coffee, tea, drinks etc. and tables and chairs. It was a delightful break. The last 7.5 km was much harder than the first 10. It got hot. The path was a stone path through fields, some ploughed, some with the crops cut, and various fields of old sunflowers, heads bowed to the east peppered here and there. The fields go as far as you can see. But unlike the prairies, they are often rolling hills.
Calzadilla de la Cueza is very small. The place I am staying is the Camino Real. Ísn´t there a movie by that name? It is quite a hive of activity here, it is the only place in town to eat.. I haven´t seen anyone yet whom I know, but I do know Sheila is staying here.
The sequence of events- for me at least, is to arrive and shower, attend to feet, then wash clothes and wrap them in the towel so they can dry in time for morning. I had something to eat when I arrived to give me time to decide whether or not I would stay. It is beautiful and sunny, so I have washed almost all the clothes I have with me, save for something to wear while the others dry. Reports say that rain is on its way, so make hay while the sun shines. I will need to wear my boots once it rains, so that will be interesting to see how they treat my feet.
These places I have visited on the Meseta all hang out their sheets outside to dry. They have such a fresh smell, it is delightful.
Once again, the moon hung in the sky to past noon. Not sure why that happens, I have not noticed it before, but then, I don´t usually spend my time walking looking at the sky. It is close to a half moon now. Fascinating being so tuned into the passing phases of the moon and nature. The mornings start out very cool and soon warm up. NOt too much of a wind today, but got quite hot.
Tomorrow I expect to be in Sahagun, some 21km away.
It is a bigger town, so hopefully, will continue this then. Bye for now. Heather
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